May 30 – Ten miles planned for today. We had our morning coffee at the Hotel La Ruta, then picked up the yellow arrows of the trail, which, as always, led us to the church. This one had a cow up in the bell tower! Do you see it?
For those who may think that I have an obsession about photographing churches, let me remind you that the Camino is designed to pass the church in every town. The pilgrims of old sought respite and shelter in the churches as they walked. These days the churches are all locked, of course, but the Camino still passes by. It’s the one thing you can count on in every town.
Spotted two rabbits, two deer, a big green lizard and tons of butterflies as we hiked. Jim got pictures of the butterflies – the rest were too fast for us.
We walked through three deserted towns, with signs explaining that they used to be important stops for the Camino in ages past, although they no longer have alburgues.Jim was reading about the towns in our little guidebook, when he noticed that the third town had a Casa Rural. We were planning to stay at the alburgue in Asturianos tonight, which didn’t get great reviews, but looked like the only place within (our) walking distance. We were almost through Entrepeñas, a deserted-looking town, when we saw the sign on the house of Casa Rural El Cuco. The proprietress was standing right out front buying fruit and/or fish from a refrigerated truck (there are no stores in this town) and she invited us in. A beautiful quiet house with a lovely garden, and a promise of breakfast in the morning! We asked what we could do for our meal today (there are no restaurants in this town), and our host offered to drive us to the restaurant in Asturianos, and to put our clothes in her washing machine while we ate. Deal! The restaurant is run by a grumpy lady who argues with her customers about what they ordered. She won’t start cooking until everyone is seated. Entertaining – and the food was good! The restaurant manager drove us back to the Casa. 174 miles to go.
May 31 – Our host made us an entire homemade bundt cake, buttered toast, homemade jam, juice and a whole pot of coffee and heated milk for breakfast. A wonderful way to start another clear, sunny day! Eleven and a half miles today.
We passed a flock of sheep, tended by one shepherd and a small dog.
Jim said he wished the jets would stop scratching up his sky.
And now we are in Puebla de Sanabria, where we will take a day off. More to come. 163 miles to go.