May 28 – The image above is wall art that we saw at the school on our way out of Camarzana.  After a true rest day (there was nothing to see or do in Camarzana, so we really rested), we set out to walk an eleven mile stretch down the Rio Tera, around the dam, and on to Villar de Farfón, population 5.  According to our guidebook, the only people who live in Villar de Farfón are one old man, and the missionary family who run the alburgue (I think this is a joke, but we’ll see).  The alburgue only has four beds, and we are hoping that two beds will be available when we get there, otherwise we’ll have to walk another three miles to the next town.

The day dawned overcast and gray, but no rain is expected.  

We had coffee in the tiny town of Olleros de Tera, and spent time speaking with a German and a Dutchman who were walking together.

The trail left the dirt road and we scrambled down a narrow brush path to get closer to the dam.

Then we walked over the bridge and looked down on the dam.  I think this is the last we will see of the Rio Tera and all its Tera towns.

Handmade signs let us know we were approaching Villar de Farfón.

We read that the missionary host of the alburgue offers coffee and conversation to anyone who wants to stop in.  As we enter the tiny town, we think maybe our guidebook wasn’t joking.  These buildings have seen better days, and we see no shops or businesses.

Here is the Alburgue Rehobeth:

It’s actually very nice inside, with an open kitchen and table where our two friends from this morning are having coffee.  We ask if we can stay, and are the first to check in for the day.  Our host is a missionary who has lived in South Africa and India.  He has tracts in all languages in case anyone wishes to learn about Christianity.  Here is the dormitory:

Here is the shower!

An Australian couple came in after a while, then a Brit with an injured leg.  Although there were only four beds in the dormitory, our host had another bunk in the back so all could stay.  As there is no place in town to buy food, our host keeps the makings of a spaghetti dinner and salad on hand, along with sodas, coffee, milk and cookies.  There is no set fee to stay at the alburgue – there is a box and a sign asking for a ‘donativo’.  Jim offered to cook, and we made a communal supper.  Jim’s spaghetti sauce can’t be beat!  Richard the Brit washed the dishes.  We had a very relaxed evening.

After supper we walked around the town, seeing no one.  The church doesn’t look active:

Views from the bell tower:

I think the alburgue family may be the only folks in town!

193 miles to go.

May 29 – Good beds and a relaxing night!  After a coffee and cookie breakfast, we bade farewell to our friends Peter, Lily and Richard.  Our host (sorry I didn’t retain his name) is on the right:

Nine miles today to Mombuey.

We stopped in Rionegro for coffee:

This must be the Rio Negro:

A groovy pilgrim statue:

The weather cleared as we walked:

There may be a mountain in our future!

And now we are in the Hotel La Ruta in Mombuey, with the laundry hanging by the window, a menu del dia in our bellies and a siesta coming on.  184 miles to go.