Tag Archives: Puebla de Sanabria

Puebla de Sanabria to Requejo de Sanabria to Padornelo

June 2 – Left our comfy Hotel Victoria for an 8 mile walk to Requejo de Sanabria.  Another cool, clear morning. We crossed a bridge over the Rio Castro to exit Puebla, and followed the river for the first hour or so.

After leaving the river, which involved some rock hopping and wet boots, our route ran mostly along the roadside, sometimes on the asphalt, and sometimes on a tractor path next to the highway.  Then we entered a shady wood.

The woods took us to the tiny, mostly abandoned village of Terroso, and a path to a Santiago church.

Walking staff and shells of St. James:

More shells on the door:

Although the church is locked, there is a small shrine by the side door.  As I approach it the light comes on.  It is St. James, and a little plate with an image of Our Lady of Fatima.

We continue down the path to see a St. James cross:

St. James is in the middle:

And I guess a grumpy Madonna and child on top:

Shady trails the rest of the way to Requejo.  

In Requejo, there were two hotels on the main road, with an alburgue between.  At the first hotel, the proprietress waved us off and told us to go to the alburgue, although the hotel didn’t look like it had many customers.  I guess she didn’t want to deal with hikers.  At the Hotel Mar Rojo, we were given a comfy room and a good meal.  155 miles to go.

June 3 – Only six miles planned for today, and I will tell you why.  When we started walking in Sevilla, the terrain was perfectly flat.  Then we started gaining elevation, and the trail was a little more challenging:

Our guidebook informed us that today we would climb to the highest point of this Camino, with an elevation profile like this:

So I overreacted just a bit, and asked Jim to break up the hike to Lubian with a night at Padornelo, at the top of the mountain.

Our first few miles were entirely on the highway.

Then we walked through a construction detour:

By mid morning the road began to climb:

And before you could say “Bob’s your uncle”, we were at the summit.

All that to say, the big climb was just not such a much, and we were at our hotel by 11am.  I definitely could have made it to Lubian…

But instead we are in Padornelo, with a very nice view from our window:

And a quaint little church:

Where the townsfolk care enough to write their name on the hillside:

…and take their horses for walks at the gas station:

And the mist rolls down the mountain in the evening.

149 miles to go.

Puebla de Sanabria 

June 1 – Happy June to you, and happy tenth wedding anniversary to my wonderful Jim ❤️!  We are celebrating by taking a day off in the very nice Hotel Victoria, with comfy pillows, a balcony with a view of the mountains, and a jacuzzi tub.  Really posh!  Here’s our view:Puebla de Sanabria is a small tourist town, between the Rio Tera and the Rio Castro.  I thought we had said goodbye to the Rio Tera, but here it is again!

We walked across the bridge toward the Old City, and the first thing I saw were the steps going up to the castle. Please don’t make me climb those steps with my pack on!

Luckily, the trail kept to the road, and I was spared the steps.

After getting settled in our hotel, we set out to see the town.  There is a twelfth century church here:

There is an equally ancient hermitage:

There is a medieval castle / fort:

There is a Museum of Gigantic Heads:

Now for the bad news.  With the exception of the castle, all the attractions are open on weekends only, and today is most definitely a Thursday.  Oh well!  We strolled around the Old City, looking at the tourist shops:

Then on to the castle!

Jim got to try on some armor and weapons:

The views from the ramparts were pretty spectacular:

There was a video inside that showed the history of the area, so I got to see some of the gigantic heads after all!  I guess they were used for parades, maybe?  Let me know if you know.

The Old City:

So, that was our day, along with a wonderful meal and some natilla for dessert.  Love you, Jim! ❤️

Mombuey to Entrepeñas to Puebla de Sanabria

May 30 – Ten miles planned for today.  We had our morning coffee at the Hotel La Ruta, then picked up the yellow arrows of the trail, which, as always, led us to the church.  This one had a cow up in the bell tower!  Do you see it?  

How about now?

For those who may think that I have an obsession about photographing churches, let me remind you that the Camino is designed to pass the church in every town.  The pilgrims of old sought respite and shelter in the churches as they walked.  These days the churches are all locked, of course, but the Camino still passes by. It’s the one thing you can count on in every town.

The morning was clear and cool, although we shed our jackets within the hour, and turned our pants into shorts an hour after that.

Spotted two rabbits, two deer, a big green lizard and tons of butterflies as we hiked.  Jim got pictures of the butterflies – the rest were too fast for us.

We walked through three deserted towns, with signs explaining that they used to be important stops for the Camino in ages past, although they no longer have alburgues.Jim was reading about the towns in our little guidebook, when he noticed that the third town had a Casa Rural.  We were planning to stay at the alburgue in Asturianos tonight, which didn’t get great reviews, but looked like the only place within (our) walking distance.  We were almost through Entrepeñas, a deserted-looking town, when we saw the sign on the house of Casa Rural El Cuco.  The proprietress was standing right out front buying fruit and/or fish from a refrigerated truck (there are no stores in this town) and she invited us in.  A beautiful quiet house with a lovely garden, and a promise of breakfast in the morning!  We asked what we could do for our meal today (there are no restaurants in this town), and our host offered to drive us to the restaurant in Asturianos, and to put our clothes in her washing machine while we ate.  Deal!  The restaurant is run by a grumpy lady who argues with her customers about what they ordered.  She won’t start cooking until everyone is seated.  Entertaining – and the food was good!  The restaurant manager drove us back to the Casa.  174 miles to go.

May 31 – Our host made us an entire homemade bundt cake, buttered toast, homemade jam, juice and a whole pot of coffee and heated milk for breakfast.  A wonderful way to start another clear, sunny day!  Eleven and a half miles today.

Parts of the trail were muddy, and the day was mostly uphil, with a few more empty towns.

We passed a flock of sheep, tended by one shepherd and a small dog.

The last five miles were on asphalt service road paralleling the highway.

Jim said he wished the jets would stop scratching up his sky.

And now we are in Puebla de Sanabria, where we will take a day off.  More to come.  163 miles to go.