Tag Archives: Mombuey

Mombuey to Entrepeñas to Puebla de Sanabria

May 30 – Ten miles planned for today.  We had our morning coffee at the Hotel La Ruta, then picked up the yellow arrows of the trail, which, as always, led us to the church.  This one had a cow up in the bell tower!  Do you see it?  

How about now?

For those who may think that I have an obsession about photographing churches, let me remind you that the Camino is designed to pass the church in every town.  The pilgrims of old sought respite and shelter in the churches as they walked.  These days the churches are all locked, of course, but the Camino still passes by. It’s the one thing you can count on in every town.

The morning was clear and cool, although we shed our jackets within the hour, and turned our pants into shorts an hour after that.

Spotted two rabbits, two deer, a big green lizard and tons of butterflies as we hiked.  Jim got pictures of the butterflies – the rest were too fast for us.

We walked through three deserted towns, with signs explaining that they used to be important stops for the Camino in ages past, although they no longer have alburgues.Jim was reading about the towns in our little guidebook, when he noticed that the third town had a Casa Rural.  We were planning to stay at the alburgue in Asturianos tonight, which didn’t get great reviews, but looked like the only place within (our) walking distance.  We were almost through Entrepeñas, a deserted-looking town, when we saw the sign on the house of Casa Rural El Cuco.  The proprietress was standing right out front buying fruit and/or fish from a refrigerated truck (there are no stores in this town) and she invited us in.  A beautiful quiet house with a lovely garden, and a promise of breakfast in the morning!  We asked what we could do for our meal today (there are no restaurants in this town), and our host offered to drive us to the restaurant in Asturianos, and to put our clothes in her washing machine while we ate.  Deal!  The restaurant is run by a grumpy lady who argues with her customers about what they ordered.  She won’t start cooking until everyone is seated.  Entertaining – and the food was good!  The restaurant manager drove us back to the Casa.  174 miles to go.

May 31 – Our host made us an entire homemade bundt cake, buttered toast, homemade jam, juice and a whole pot of coffee and heated milk for breakfast.  A wonderful way to start another clear, sunny day!  Eleven and a half miles today.

Parts of the trail were muddy, and the day was mostly uphil, with a few more empty towns.

We passed a flock of sheep, tended by one shepherd and a small dog.

The last five miles were on asphalt service road paralleling the highway.

Jim said he wished the jets would stop scratching up his sky.

And now we are in Puebla de Sanabria, where we will take a day off.  More to come.  163 miles to go.

Camarzana de Tera to Villar de Farfón to Mombuey

May 28 – The image above is wall art that we saw at the school on our way out of Camarzana.  After a true rest day (there was nothing to see or do in Camarzana, so we really rested), we set out to walk an eleven mile stretch down the Rio Tera, around the dam, and on to Villar de Farfón, population 5.  According to our guidebook, the only people who live in Villar de Farfón are one old man, and the missionary family who run the alburgue (I think this is a joke, but we’ll see).  The alburgue only has four beds, and we are hoping that two beds will be available when we get there, otherwise we’ll have to walk another three miles to the next town.

The day dawned overcast and gray, but no rain is expected.  

We had coffee in the tiny town of Olleros de Tera, and spent time speaking with a German and a Dutchman who were walking together.

The trail left the dirt road and we scrambled down a narrow brush path to get closer to the dam.

Then we walked over the bridge and looked down on the dam.  I think this is the last we will see of the Rio Tera and all its Tera towns.

Handmade signs let us know we were approaching Villar de Farfón.

We read that the missionary host of the alburgue offers coffee and conversation to anyone who wants to stop in.  As we enter the tiny town, we think maybe our guidebook wasn’t joking.  These buildings have seen better days, and we see no shops or businesses.

Here is the Alburgue Rehobeth:

It’s actually very nice inside, with an open kitchen and table where our two friends from this morning are having coffee.  We ask if we can stay, and are the first to check in for the day.  Our host is a missionary who has lived in South Africa and India.  He has tracts in all languages in case anyone wishes to learn about Christianity.  Here is the dormitory:

Here is the shower!

An Australian couple came in after a while, then a Brit with an injured leg.  Although there were only four beds in the dormitory, our host had another bunk in the back so all could stay.  As there is no place in town to buy food, our host keeps the makings of a spaghetti dinner and salad on hand, along with sodas, coffee, milk and cookies.  There is no set fee to stay at the alburgue – there is a box and a sign asking for a ‘donativo’.  Jim offered to cook, and we made a communal supper.  Jim’s spaghetti sauce can’t be beat!  Richard the Brit washed the dishes.  We had a very relaxed evening.

After supper we walked around the town, seeing no one.  The church doesn’t look active:

Views from the bell tower:

I think the alburgue family may be the only folks in town!

193 miles to go.

May 29 – Good beds and a relaxing night!  After a coffee and cookie breakfast, we bade farewell to our friends Peter, Lily and Richard.  Our host (sorry I didn’t retain his name) is on the right:

Nine miles today to Mombuey.

We stopped in Rionegro for coffee:

This must be the Rio Negro:


A groovy pilgrim statue:

The weather cleared as we walked:

There may be a mountain in our future!

And now we are in the Hotel La Ruta in Mombuey, with the laundry hanging by the window, a menu del dia in our bellies and a siesta coming on.  184 miles to go.