Tag Archives: Jakobusweg

Haslach to Zell am Harmersbach

8/11 – 49 degrees this morning – brrr!  Can’t believe this is August!  How cold must it get here in winter?  Walked through some pretty farm country this morning.

Here is a pear orchard.

Lost the shell markers again today, but we’ve decided that as long as we follow some marked trail, we will eventually get to a town.  The signposts with distance to each place are really enabling us to navigate without a guidebook.

Another big hill to climb, with a picnic place carved out of pine for us at the top.  How nice!  Jim had put a styrofoam box of leftover chicken curry from the Asian restaurant into the hotel’s freezer last night, and it was thawed and ready to eat by midday.  What a delicious break from cold cuts and cheese!

A view from the summit.

By mid afternoon we caught up with our pesky shell again. Lots of trails using this mountain!

Zell am Harmersbach is on the Harmersbach River.

There is an old train here.

Thanks to our curry mountaintop lunch, we still had sandwiches from this morning in our bag, so we didn’t have to go out to find a place to eat tonight.  Thank goodness – I’m tired and my feet hurt!

It seems to me that a hiking blog must be boring for those who haven’t felt the peace of a quiet day filled with birdsong, the anxiety of a lost marker, or the elation of reaching a summit.  I realize that many of my pix look similar – what distinguishes one green hilltop or one blue sky from another?  They don’t show the slow ascents in dark woods, my rasping breath, my achy feet or the pounding of blood in my ears.  I share the celebration of mountaintop experiences, and the occasional cow.  I hope everyone gets to experience the joy that these walks give me, whatever your particular passion may be.

Lossburg to Schenkenzell – the Jakobusweg

8/8 – After a sumptuous breakfast of fresh hard rolls, cold cuts, many cheeses, large slabs of butter, soft boiled eggs and a variety of marmalades and honey, we were ready to start our hike.  Frau Kilgus encouraged us to make extra sandwiches to take on the trail, and even gave us bags to store them in.  What a sweet lady!  I usually lose weight while hiking, but I’m pretty sure this hike will be the exception.  

Germans love to hike and bike, and there are many routes we could have chosen through the Schwarzwald. We elected to follow the Jakobusweg (Way of St. James), as we had previously hiked the Camino de Santiago Frances (Way of St. James) across northern Spain in 2011, and the Caminho de Santiago Portugues, north through Portugal and into Spain in 2014.  There are Camino pilgrimage routes throughout Europe, all ending at the Cathedral of Santiago de Campostela in Spain. 

This time, we are not competing a Camino to the Cathedral, but just walking along its path for one week.  It will be good to follow the yellow and blue Sign of the Shell again.

Our trek today was advertised at about 10 miles, but was closer to 12 once we factored in the extra mileage to our Gastehaus. The terrain was pretty and fairly flat, for which I was grateful.  The weather was gorgeous.  Here is my favorite hiking sight:  the back of Jim.

Cows in the meadow.

A field of yellow flowers with the Black Forest beyond.

St. Jakob with a broken hat

We reached our next destination, the little town of Schenkenzell by mid-afternoon, and were able to do some laundry and hang it on the balcony in the sun.  No wifi here either  – definitely a trend…

The Gastehaus Muller had no attentive Frau – a teenager let us in, then took off, so there was no one to answer our questions.  Luckily, Google Maps on my phone showed us a place to eat, even though we weren’t crazy about walking another half hour after walking all day.  It turned out to be a nice Italian restaurant, so pasta carbonara was our evening fare.  Carbo loading for tomorrow’s hike!