Tag Archives: Cesky Krumlov

The Bird Castle, Česky Krumlov, Czechia

Sep 17 – I bet you know that rich nobles back in the day kept nightingales and song birds around just to hear them sing. But did you ever wonder whose job it was to catch those birds? They were called fowlers, and today we’re climbing the Fowlers Hill.

At the top of the hill is a monument, called the Little Castle or Bird Castle, that was originally intended as a memorial to commemorate the victory over Napoleon Bonaparte in the Battle of Leipzig of 1813. The troops there were commanded by a brother of the Duke of Česky Krumlov. 

Walking back through our fairytale town
Looking up to the Cloak Bridge
Outside the castle walls
Through the castle gardens
…and out past where any tourists go
A path up Fowlers Hill – see the trail marker on the tree?
A shady path through the woods
Here are those funny mushrooms again
At the top, the Bird Castle, originally intended as a memorial to the Napoleonic Battle of Leipzig
Here’s what the unfinished monument looked like before it was privately acquired in 2010
Now it’s a cozy residence
See the birds on the gate?
Down the other side of the hill, back towards town
Back into the castle gardens
…on toward home
…and back to the tourists
Jim enjoys speaking with the Syrians who run the local kabab and pizza places (there are no KFC or McDonalds here).
Today we enjoyed a kebab pizza – the best of both worlds!
Česky Krumlov, we’ll miss you!

The Castle, Česky Krumlov, Czechia

Sep 13 – This little fairytale town was built around a medieval castle on the bank of the Vitava River. No battles were fought here – it’s just a castle that was owned by one rich family after another, and is now the property of the state.

The Industrial Revolution passed by this place. Since becoming a World Heritage site in 1992, the town has revolved around tourism. Bus loads of tourists arrive every day to wander the cobblestone streets and take selfies with the castle tower in the background.

The Castle Tower dominates the landscape
Pretty pastel buildings house restaurants and tourist shops. In the square is another Plague Tower, erected in the 1700s giving thanks to the Virgin Mary for the end of the plague.
So many tourists!
The castle,s outer walls are painted to appear three dimensional
A view from the Cloak Bridge that connects the lower and upper castles
This rider doesn’t fear falling off his horse!
Jim made friends with the castle sentry
Yes, three bears occupy what once was the moat – a sign assures us that these bears are not being exploited, but have been in the care of the state since the circus closed.
An art supply shop where all the paint tubes look like fingers!
The castle garden hedges are precisely trimmed
The beds look a bit dry
The castle garden fountain
We encountered a vineyard
…and a display of historic beers of Česky Krumlov
For our midday meal, we found a mouthwatering Czech restaurant – Jim had the aromatic goulash with red cabbage, and I had a dish worthy of my German Oma: pulled pork and onions over a mound of sauerkraut with potato dumplings. Heaven!
What a lovely day!

Česky Krumlov, Czechia

Sep 11 – When Jim planned this trip, he booked us into cities in a circle around Prague, and we figured we would travel around the circle. Turns out that you can’t get anywhere in this country without going through Prague, so our travel days will be like spokes of a wheel, going back to Prague every time before advancing to the next place.

So we spent this whole day traveling from Olomouc back to Prague by train, then onward to Česky Krumlov by bus. (The little karat above the Č indicates a Ch sound, so CHESky.) We met a young family in the train station who said they shared our sadness on this anniversary of 9/11, which we thought was so sweet. Nice people of Czechia!

On the (free!) trolley in Olomouc going to the train station
Our very comfy 2nd class seats on the train – half price for seniors
Looking out the window of the bus to Česky Krumlov
So now we are in Česky Krumlov, high in the hills and away from the city – the weather is a little cooler here
This town is full of pensions attached to private homes. We are staying at Pension Klima, in an efficiency studio with a full kitchen. Our host has a face collection at our door that made me smile.
Jim has some hiking planned for us this week – oh boy!
I think we’re going to like it here!