Tag Archives: Prague

Botanicka Zahrada, Prague, Czechia

Sep 2 – For our last day in Prague, we treated ourselves to a quiet day at the botanical gardens, the Botanicka Zahrada Praha.

The plants were arranged by continent
There was also an aquatic display
The tropical plants in the greenhouse were lush
…and even included a waterfall
Sheep on the hillside
Jim chased down this bird that made much more noise than its size would indicate
Clustered plantings near the beehives
The bees looked happy
Rudbeckia – Duncan’s favorite flower
Did you know that the oldest land plant, Cooksonia, was discovered right here in Czechia? Wow!
The gardens adjoin a winery
…with lots of varieties
A lovely day!

Dancing House, Fortress and Basilica, Prague, Czechia

Sep 1 – No trip to Prague is complete without a visit to the Dancing House, a modern construct erected in 1996 on the site of a building destroyed by US bombing in 1945.

The building has a hotel and a restaurant on top. The ball on top is called Medusa.
We paid dearly for a cup of coffee so we could enjoy the view
A lovely view!
Here’s the building from the other side. See how the windows are not in straight rows?
We walked back along the Vitava River
What is this? A sign attached explained that this statue was used as a battering ram during a protest in the Soviet era.
What’s this? You know how Jim likes to climb!
So we went up and up some more until we reached …
…the Vysehrad Fortress! Instead of finding armaments and cannon inside, we found…
…the Basilica of St Peter and St Paul. For a non-religious country, there sure are lots of churches here.
A colorful entry
More lovely decorated ceilings
A particularly sweet painting of baby Jesus in the loving arms of Joseph
Adjoining the basilica was a cemetary that featured busts of the deceased
…some nattily attired!
You know I kept looking until I found a woman. Thanks for representing, Milada!
More Czech food today – I just had pasta and chicken, while Jim stepped up and ordered fried meat ball with sweet pickles and mashed potatoes. A fine repast!

Kafka, Freud and a Library, Prague, Czechia

Aug 31 – When Gregor Samsa awoke one morning from troubled dreams, he found himself changed into an monstrous cockroach in his bed.

I start today with the opening line from Kafka’s Metamorphosis, as today we will see the head of Franz Kafka. Spinning. Slowly.

On a downtown cul-de-sac is a big shiny head of Franz Kafka, a work by Czech artist David Cerny in 2014.
At the top of every hour, it rotates slowly, in horizontal slices
Some say Kafka should not be portrayed as a bright, shiny figure. Others say he was multidimensional, so this work is apt.
The crowd is appreciative
Finally, all the slices come back together, and the head is restored until the next hour.
Here is another Kafka statue by Jaroslav Rona, depicting Kafka sitting atop an empty suit. I hope you appreciate all the art education you’re getting today!
Down the street is another work by David Cerny, installed in 1996 high up over the street, dangling from a flagpole. Do you see it? When this work was on tour, people sometimes called the police to report a possible suicide.
This is Sigmund Freud, hanging nonchalantly by one hand with his other hand in his pocket, as if contemplating whether one should hang on for the new millennium.
Now for something completely different, we took a trolley across town to the Strahov Monastery and Library
A beautiful space to gaze into, although we weren’t allowed inside
I’m a fan of gorgeous ceilings
A collection of old globes
…and natural specimens in cases that look like books
The Church of Our Lady, attached to the monastery, was equally ornate.
Once again, we couldn’t go in, so made use of our zoom lens to see the altar.
On our way home, we stopped to see one more work by David Cerny; King Wenceslaus astride his upside down dead horse, that mocks the statue of him astride his horse in the square. A day of contrasts!

National Museum, Prague Czechia

Aug 30 – Today we walked over to check out the Prague National Museum, just down the road from our apartment.

A very impressive exterior
…and interior
The skylight in the lobby, with murals all around
It is a natural history museum with rooms dedicated to all manner of creatures
…terrestrial and aquatic
…as well as an extensive anthropology and evolutionary area that Jim really liked
There was also King Wenceslaus
…and King Wenceslaus
…and St. Wenceslaus with St. Vitus. There were seriously too many kings named Wenceslaus – I haven’t been able to get that Christmas carol out of my head all week!
There were also lots of Madonnas, my personal favorite
…very old, from the 1300 – 1400s
A sad Madonna with a very crabby-old-man-looking Jesus
…and a very old wooden Madonna who lost her head
A fun day!
We treated ourselves to a Sunday meal at our favorite Turkish restaurant, where the entrees change every day. Today they offered roasted aubergine (eggplant) which reminded us of our time in Istanbul. Heavenly!

St. Vitus Cathedral and Prague Castle, Prague, Czechia

Aug 29 – Another beautiful morning. The weather so far has been lovely, with highs in the 70s – perfect for walking.

Today we will journey to Prague Castle to see the actual window where the Defenestration of Prague took place in 1618, leading to the 30 Years War.

In case you don’t recall the details, the Catholics and the Protestants were sparring over which religion should rule the people. When the argument got heated, the Protestants threw two Catholic regents and a secretary out the window, presuming they would fall to their deaths. (Defenestration means getting thrown out the window.)

All three survived the fall, with the Catholics saying the regents had been caught up by angels, and the Protestants maintaining that their fall had been softened by their landing in the dung heap. Divine intervention? You decide!

The rooftops of the old town with the spires of St. Nicholas Church in the distance
Our first stop this morning is St. Vitus Cathedral, started in 1344, which is part of the many buildings that comprise Prague Castle
Here’s our old friend St. John Nepomuk, post-drowning, being attended by an angel
Bronze figures on the gates
Here’s the entrance – very Gothic
It’s early morning, but we didn’t beat the crowds today
I thought this was a painting, but it’s 3D! Mary and Elizabeth in the Mary Chapel
The tomb of St. John Nepomuk
The St. Wenceslaus Chapel, which contains relics of the saint
Stained glass in the Chapel of Saint Ludmila – aren’t the colors gorgeous?
Back outside – breathtaking!
Detail of the arches
Now, on to the castle!
The ceiling of the main hall
The crown of King Wenceslaus IV
Lots of armor
…and weapons
I wonder if those ear curlicues spin on a windy day?
Shields!
A token from Mi’lady
What castle is complete without a torture chamber?
Now the moment we’ve been waiting for – the Window of Defenestration!
Jim tried to see how far down the drop was, but he couldn’t get a clear shot of the ground
You’ll just have to imagine it!
Outside the castle is Golden Lane, a row of little dwellings where the folks who worked at the castle lived
…in really snug quarters
Our walk home included a stop at the Czech Senate – a lovely place to stroll
…and a walk over the bridge. Do you think those guys are dressed as bananas or pencils?
We sampled Czech food today – I had the beef goulash with bread dumplings (which turned out to just be bread) and Jim had a pork cutlet covered in cheese.
A lovely day!

The Lennon Wall and the Charles Bridge, Prague, Czechia

Aug 28 – After a good night’s sleep, some espresso and an egg breakfast, we are ready to face the day’s adventures.

When Jim told me that Prague had a Lennon Wall, I had visions of Russian Marx and Lenin, but no! After his assassination in 1980, someone painted a mural of John Lennon on a downtown wall. People added song lyrics, poems, signatures and graffiti until the image of John was completely covered over. Every time the government painted over the images, the next day a new mural would begin.

Over the years there were images of short-haired John, long-haired John, bearded John, Yoko and John, and John with kaleidoscope eyes. Today, John was not to be seen, as his face was totally covered with graffiti.

That might be some Beatle mop-top hair under all that graffiti…
…and that might be Lucy in the Sky and Strawberry Fields. Who can say?
A lot to take in
🎶Two of us standing solo in the sun… (see what I did there?)
Time to cross the very famous Charles Bridge, started by King Charles IV in 1357. It spans the Vitava River, connecting Prague Castle to the Old Town. Here are the steps to climb up the bridge.
We were there very early in the morning, trying to beat the crowds
The bridge boasts dozens of statues, mostly added in the 1600s
…including St John Nepomuk, who was martyred by (not so good) King Wenceslaus, who had him thrown into the river after refusing to reveal secrets that the queen told him during confession.
At the base of the state are two bas reliefs that every passerby touches for luck: the dog sitting loyally by his knight (good dog!) and…
…the depiction of St. John being thrown off this very bridge. The patina has worn off the reliefs from being touched by so many hands.
We also obligingly touched the dead Saint on a gate at the center of the bridge.
More statues – we learned that all the statues on the bridge are replicas, with the originals stored for safety in museums
We thought this guy was praying, but before the day was out we’d seen several of these beggars, humbly holding out their begging cup and not looking at passersby
As we approached the end of the bridge, we could see the tourist crowds heading our way. Glad we got an early start!
We strolled around the Old Town
Looking at more statues
…and interesting buildings
Another penitent beggar
We looked in shop windows
…and considered a snack until we saw it was called Spit Cake
A fun day!

Prague, Czechia

Aug 27 – Easy travels today, from Norfolk to Philly, then a straight shot into Prague. No delays, no drama. The hardest part was trying to convince myself after landing that it was 8am, when my brain knew very well that it was only 2am and I hadn’t had hardly enough sleep. The entry system into Czechia was easy peasy – kiosk for passport, fingerprints and photo, and practically no line for an entry stamp. Good job, Czechia!

Google Maps gave us detailed directions on how to get to our apartment – the #59 bus from the airport to the metro station, then the A train for 7 stops to get us within a few blocks of our place. Our usual concern is how to purchase transit tickets, but with this country’s “old folks ride free” policy, we just hopped aboard!

We were concerned that we were arriving way earlier than the stated check-in time, but thought perhaps we could ask to stash our packs for the morning. Fortunately, the receptionist was there early and let us right in. We dropped gratefully onto our comfy bed for a catch up nap.

We roused ourselves to find some lunch and sunshine (the best way to counteract jet lag). After some burgers and our first local beers, we walked into the Old Town to see what we could see.

Lots of crowds and pretty pastel buildings
Ornate carvings
A colorful mosaic atop a fancy old palace
Lots of statues
…and faces
In the Old Town Square is the Old Town Hall, which boasts an Old Clock Tower containing an astronomical clock that dates back to the year 1410.
The top circle is a form of astrolabe that shows the movements of the sun and moon. The bottom circle is a calendar.
Every hour, the two little doors above the clock open up and the twelve Apostles can be seen (just barely) rotating through the doors. The figures of the Four Despised Things (lust, greed, vanity and death) on either side of the clock do a little shaky dance. Thus endeth our day!