Category Archives: Travel

Vila Franca de Xira to Azambuja

8/31 – our 12 mile trek today was mostly on highway, which was nasty, but would have been worse on a weekday with heavier traffic. We met no other pilgrims today.

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We stopped in a small town at a cafe for lunch, and asked for a sandwich (sande). This is invariably one slice of ham (prosciutto) on a hard roll, with no mustard or mayo. Dry, dry, dry. Imagine our delight when the sandwiches came with ham, cheese and margarine! A culinary delight, that we could probably always have if we just knew how to order it…

We noticed several houses with Our Lady of Fatima displayed over the door:

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As we walked along, I kept noticing tomatoes on the ground; some smashed, some eaten by bugs or birds, but many more in perfect condition, or almost so. Have the town folk been tossing them out the windows? Is this some sort of cultural phenomenon? My ruminations were answered soon enough when we spotted a double length tractor trailer barreling down the highway with an unsecured cargo of ripe red tomatoes bouncing around and spilling out. Mystery solved!

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Here are some flowers from today’s walk:

Azambuja is another town with a bull ring, and we passed lots of posters advertising upcoming events. I’m happy to report that there are female bullfighters too, if this poster is any indication.

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We are staying in a quiet pensao, without internet, so we didn’t expect much excitement for the evening. When we went to seek out supper around 7:30 ( that’s really the earliest you can get fed in this country), we found every restaurant full to bursting, with the soccer game blaring out on the TV. We passed by the first two restaurants, then decided there was nothing else for it, and made our way into the third. The proprietor found us two seats at a long table filled with shouting futbol fans, and brought us pork and fried potatoes for two. And, he brought out some hot sauce, called Piri Piri, the first condiment we’ve seen! We ate every bit, and rooted for the home team. The uniforms for one team advertised beer, and the other advertised TV satellite dishes. No idea who won!

Lying in bed, we listened to the shouting, singing and general carousing that seems to be a nightly event here, until the bars close at 2am. Amid all the noise we distinctly heard a full verse of God Bless America! Now, who can that be?image

Alverca to Vila Franca de Xira

8/30 – today we planned an easy day of just 7 miles. Our guidebook recommended a 19 mile day, but we split it, as we are taking our time, and wanted to enjoy the town of Vila Franca de Xira. Tomorrow we will walk the other 12 miles.

We met two pilgrims from Brazil, who have completed six different caminhos. They arrived in Lisbon yesterday, walked until 10:30 last night, and would walk another 20 miles today. Everyone walks their own Caminho.

We walked some dusty early morning trail, and got to see some roses and morning glories in bloom:
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We spent an hour on a nasty road walk along highway N10, but during this stretch several bikers wished us Bom Caminho, and an old man waved his arms to slow down the traffic as we passed. Nice People of a Portugal! We are asked if we are walking to Fatima, as both pilgrimages share a trail at this point. As Fatima is on the way, we are considering going there too. Why not?

Finally, the path took us back to the River Tejo, where we enjoyed walking on a multi-use track with bikers, joggers and families enjoying a Saturday outing.

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We got to see our first bullfighting stadium, from a distance, there are posters of matadors all over, and bull is on the menu, so we think this is a bullfighting town:

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We had another mystery lunch, as this is not Lisbon, so there are no tourist menus translated to English. We asked for the specials of the day, and the waitress asked lots of questions, to which we replied Yes. I ended up with codfish soup (delicious!) and a pork sandwich. Jim got fried pork loin with (the now expected) rice, fries and salad. This really isn’t hard, if you don’t care what you get!

Here is our hostel, where we have a private room, and our own bathroom across the hall. We just did some laundry – see Jim’s red shirt hanging out to dry?

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A lovely afternoon in a lovely town.

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Sacavem to Alverca

8/29 – we caught the 7:30 train out of Sintra, and were back in Sacavem in an hour, right where we left off the other day. Our walk today is 11.5 miles, mostly on dirt or gravel paths, occasionally on a busy highway, and a beautiful stretch along a boardwalk overlooking the River Tejo.

We met two other pelligrinas on their way to Santiago, both young girls moving much faster than we. We exchanged the pilgrim greeting, wishing them Bom Caminho! (have a good journey!) because we are pilgrims.

As we walked down a busy street, a car leaned on the horn. I looked up to see the female driver waving and blowing kisses to us, because we are pilgrims.

As we reached our room for the night, a car stopped in the street and the driver leaned out and asked in English, “Are you okay? Do you need any help?”, because we are pilgrims.

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Images of Sintra

Sintra celebrates beauty. Here are some pictures to share.

Our quiet guesthouse:

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Our breakfast, cafe com leite and delicious custard tarts called Pastels de Nata:

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Garden paths, lovingly tended:

In the morning we’ll be on the train to Sacavem to resume our Caminho. Sintra, you’ve been wonderful!

The Castle and the Palace

8/27 – if you look way up when standing on the main street of Sintra, you can see the battlements of a castle on top of the mountain in the distance. Today we took a bus 3 miles up the mountain, to walk among the ruins of the 8th century Moorish Castle, Castelo dos Mouros. Time and earthquakes have brought down most of the structure, but the turrets and walls that remain provide a wonderful view of the countryside below.IMG_1425.JPG

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One of the things you can see from the castle is the visually striking Pena National Palace. Originally a monastery from the Middle Ages, it was mostly destroyed in the 1755 earthquake, then restored in the early 1800s by young King Ferdinand. It has tiled walls, trompe l’oeil, minarets, Moorish arches, and whatever else struck the royal family’s fancy.

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The tour displayed lots of rich-people stuff. My favorite was the kitchen:

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We walked through the natural gardens that surround the palace, and climbed to the mountain summit to see the High Cross:

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From the Cross, we looked down on the palace below:

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Enough climbing for one day – time for a nap!

Quinta da Regaleira

8/26 – there once was a millionaire who wanted the best estate ever. He hired landscapers to make the gardens magnificent, and added underground tunnels, secret grottoes, waterfalls, Rapunzel towers, and everything you ever dreamed in a fairy tale. He added secret Masonic and alchemy references, and threw in some stuff from the Knights Templar for good measure. The result is Quinta da Regaleira.image

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Here is the Inverted Tower, or Initiatic Well, that links earth and sky. Climb down the wet stone stair to reach underground tunnels to the chapel and the lake:

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We climbed up winding paths, crawled down dark tunnels, hopped on stepping stones across a lake, and came home exhausted. What a place!

Beautiful Sintra

8/25 – As our train left Lisbon behind, we saw mile after mile of high rises and urban landscape. Then, 30 minutes later, we were in a land of fairy tale castles. Welcome to Sintra! On our first afternoon, we just walked around to get our bearings:

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We peeked into a park with papier mâché animals, where a little old man played El Condor Pasa on his recorder:image

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We’re going to enjoy the beauty and the quiet for the next few days.

Goodbye Lisbon, Hello Sintra

8/24 – we are in Lisbon for one more day. What should we see? Not too far away is the Igreja Sao Roque, or the Church of Saint Rocco. This is the oldest Jesuit church in Portugal, and perhaps the most ornate. At the time it was being built (1700s), the Portuguese explorers were bringing more gold and jewels home from Brazil and the new world than anyone knew what to do with. Many of the riches ended up here. Here is one of the large gold candlesticks, over six feet tall:

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Here is a bone of Sao Roque himself, in a gold reliquary:

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This church has so many saint parts, that there are two reliquary chapels on either side of the main altar, one for male bones, and one for female bones:

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If you are not familiar with Saint Rocco, he is always depicted as having sores on his leg, and is accompanied by a dog offering him a loaf of bread:image

We are staying at the Lisbon Amazing Hostel, so every morning we meet different people at breakfast. Today we met a Chinese couple who are going to grad school in Milan, and have come to Portugal for a summer holiday. They are getting Masters degrees in business. It turns out that David (his chosen Anglican name) already owns several factories, and the degree will help them to run the companies better. As we ate toast and jam, he asked us what type of vegetable oil was the healthiest – he was thinking of starting another company to import healthy oil to China! We marveled at his ingenuity.

As an antidote to the noise and crowds of Lisbon, we are taking the train 30 minutes west to the delightful town of Sintra, where we will spend several days walking through gardens and castles before resuming our Caminho. The New York Times featured a travel section on Sintra just last week, so we fear it is no longer an undiscovered idyll, but we shall see!

Starting Our Caminho – Lisbon to Parque das Nacoes to Sacavem

8/23 – For those who may not know, the reason we are in Portugal is to walk the Way of St. James, a pilgrimage walk of 385 miles from Lisbon north to the Cathedral of Saint James in Santiago, Spain. We completed the Camino Frances, across northern Spain west to east, in 2011, and liked the experience so much we thought we’d do it again from another direction. There are many routes, from different countries, all ending at the same cathedral. The Camino Frances is the most popular route, with dozens (sometimes hundreds!) of fellow pilgrims walking with you every day. This Caminho (the H is pronounced as a Y = CamEENyo) Portugues is much less traveled, and there are fewer pilgrim accommodations along the way.

So, today we start our walk. The challenge with this journey is that the towns, with places to eat and places to stay, are about 20+ miles apart. My definition of a good day’s walk is about 12 miles, and my personal best (without injury) is 15 miles. So! Fortunately, I am not the only person with this challenge, so we have learned some “work arounds” that should enable us to complete each step of the Caminho.

Our first goal is to walk to Sacavem, about 8.5 miles, then return to Lisbon by bus. Later in the week, we will take a train back to this point, and then walk the 13 miles remaining to the next town with accommodations. Easy!

We started out after our hostel breakfast of corn flakes and boxed milk, buttered rolls with jam, juice and instant coffee. The Caminho starts at the Cathedral Se, with a painted yellow arrow to show the Way:

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We walked past the tourist part of Lisbon, and encountered a huge Saturday flea market that ran down several blocks. Lots of people, most with just a few, used household goods to sell.

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We walked through the industrial edge of the city, until we reached the site of Expo 1998, Parque das Nacoes. There are many attractions for tourists here, including a large aquarium, the Oceanarium.

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We spent the afternoon enjoying the displays of all the ocean habitats from tropical to arctic. We saw puffins, penguins and sea otters, and all manner of fish coexisting peacefully in huge tanks. The sharks and predator fish are fed by hand on a strict schedule, so that they leave the other fish alone. Remarkable!

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Then we walked under the sky tram and the Vasco da Gama Bridge:

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Just before the town of Sacavem, we saw our first waymark for those walking the Pilgrimage to Fatima. Both pilgrimages follow the same path until we reach Fatima – Santiago marks in yellow, and Fatima marks in blue:

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We’ll return to this spot later in the week to pick up where we left off!

A Day in Belem

8/22 – today we crammed ourselves onto a tourist tram for the 30 minute ride to Belem to see the Monastery of the followers of St. Jerome, or the Mosterios de Jeronimos. image

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As soon as we cleared the ticket queue and stepped inside, Jim and I both got an immediate rush of déjà vu. This monastery is EXACTLY the same as one we’ve been in before! Was it in Spain? Maybe Italy? We’ll have to consult the archives… Anyway, we got to see the tomb of the great Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama, and learned a little more Portuguese history.image

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Belem is the port where Vasco and the other explorers set out from, so there is a monument at the waterfront of the all the Portuguese explorers looking outward toward the sea. Unfortunately, it was being refurbished, so we only got to see a few explorers, but you get the idea…image

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There was another tower to climb in Belem, but we’d had enough for the day, so we squeezed onto our return tram and made our way back to Alfama. On the way back, we spied one of many street performers on his lunch break, and another making his dog do all the work:

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What did we have for supper? Portuguese Chinese food – an acquired taste!