Category Archives: Travel

When nothing is done

November 12, 2014Croatia, Travelkarenfranza

From Jim…

We take the train from Zagreb to Split, Croatia.

In Split, we walk through the market toward the palace built by the Romam Emporor Diocletian for his retirement in 305 CE. It was actually a walled fortress which housed his military garrison. After he died, the fortress was eventually occupied by the populace and today it is filled with shops, restaurants, hotels, apartments, and the remains of what he had built.

In the 7th century, Diocletian’s mausoleum, within the palace, was modified and consecrated as the Cathedral of St. Domnius (St. Duje). The bell tower was added in 1100 CE.

The Cathedral of St. Duje is the oldest Catholic cathedral in the world still in use in its original structure without near-complete renovation.

We pay an admission fee. I approach the altar.

A man kneels before the relics of St Duje, a bishop beheaded by Emperor Diocletian in 304 CE.

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Sunday in Split – the Riva

November 11, 2014Croatia, TravelDiocletian's Palace, market, Riva, Split, St. Domnius Cthedral, waterfrontkarenfranza

11/9 – here we are, back in summer! We left our quiet, pedestrian street, walked through the open-air market, and one block to the waterfront.

The Split waterfront, called the Riva, has been compared to the Promenade de Anglais in Nice, and I can see why.

The town centers around Diocletian’s Palace, built in the year 300 by the Roman Emperor, as his vacation home. After the fall of Rome, the local people moved into the palace, and it is still in use today, filled with shops, restaurants, hotels, apartments and private homes.

In the palace is the Cathedral of St. Domnius, or St. Duje, the patron saint of Split. It was originally to be Diocletian’s Mausoleum. It is said to be the oldest cathedral in Christiandom, in that it has not been renovated or built over. St. Duje is interred in the sanctuary.

The carved wooden doors depict scenes from the life of Christ. There is a museum dedicated to the artwork on the doors.

Across from the sanctuary is the very small and plain Temple of Jupiter. Not sure who is actually buried here. A statue of John the Baptist hangs over the crypt.

The Cathedral is adorned by a tall tower, added circa 1200, that can be seen from any point in the city.

As we are in the province of Dalmatia, I was pleased to see a local canine, sporting his spots:

A beautiful town – so much to see!

Zagreb to Split, Croatia

November 10, 2014Backpacking, Croatia, TravelNice People of Croatia, Split, Trainkarenfranza

11/8 – one train a day travels the 6 hours down From Zagreb to the southern shore of Croatia, and today we were on that train – the only passengers in the first class car, thanks to our EuRail pass. We are leaving autumn for one more glimpse of summer.

We saw additional signs of flooding, out our window.

An hour into the journey, our conductor informed us that we would be stopping and getting on a bus. Again?? I asked if it was due to a flood, and was told no, there was an accident. Did the train hit a car? Was everyone okay? No, an old man, and no. So we got another bus ride, and time to contemplate how quickly an ordinary day can turn into something else.

Back on the new train, we engaged our conductor in conversation. Her English is great, although she says her Italian is better. She has two teenaged daughters, one preparing for university, and one who would rather work for low wages. The economy is not good here, and really depends on the tourists.

We arrive in Split only 15 minutes late, although we had lost an hour due to the accident. It is very dark, and there are no street names on the corners. Jim is trying to follow his map, but in a short while, we know we are lost. A woman stops and looks at the address – it’s this way! Or maybe that way… She walks on.

Then a car pulls alongside, and a very American voice says, “You guys look lost. Do you speak English? Can I help?” He takes a look at the address, and recognizes it as the street where his in-laws live. He starts to direct us back the way we came, and then decides it would be easier to drive us there. Turns out he (a very tall man) went to Northwestern in Chicago on a basketball scholarship, and then moved back here with his wife and one year old daughter. We were only off by a block, and soon we are back on the street, thanking him profusely. Nice Person of Croatia!

We walked up our new (pedestrian only) street, looking for #63. When we found it, it looked dark and empty. We rang the bell, and a grandmotherly lady came down from the upper floor. “Oh, you’re here! I wasn’t expecting you til tomorrow!” Turns out we had made the online reservation for the wrong day. Sheesh! Our host Pera, assured us it was no problem, and offered us some schnapps. Another Nice Person of Croatia!

So here we are, a block from the beach. The weather is warm, and tomorrow we will see the city.

A Day in Zagreb

November 8, 2014Croatia, TravelMuseum of Broken Relationships, St. Mark's Church, Zagreb, Zagreb Cathedralkarenfranza

11/7 – it’s so nice to have a kitchen! Jim made us fried eggs and toast – very un-European – for breakfast, and two cups of coffee!

Today we strolled around Zagreb, admiring the stately, ornate buildings, the green parks, and the colors of autumn.

We visited the Zagreb Cathedral,partially under scaffolding for renovation. The inside was beautiful, but not lit.

Then we climbed the many steps up to the Old Town, where we saw the famous St. Mark’s Church

…and the Orthodox Church with its golden icons.

The highlight of the afternoon was a visit to The Museum of Broken Relationships, which we had read about. The Museum contains little stories and tokens of relationships that people around the world have shared. Some were poignant.

Some were funny.

And many were just too sad… There was a whole room of tokens of broken relationships with parents that I can’t even begin to describe. Very worthwhile visit if you ever get the chance ( the museum goes on tour).

We got to look down over the city as day turned to dusk.

A wonderful day.

Venice to Zagreb, Croatia

November 7, 2014Backpacking, Croatia, Travelflood, Jesenice, Nice People of Croatia, Slovenia, Train, Venice, Zagrebkarenfranza

11/6 – we left our lovely room in Venice in the early morning dark to catch the water bus back to the Santa Lucia train station. Luckily, it was low tide, so we did not have to wade! Online it said the boats ran every 20 minutes. What it did NOT say is that the first boat doesn’t start until 6:45. We waited for 40 minutes with lots of others who had trains to catch.

We got to the train station with 15 minutes to spare. There is a piano in the lobby, and a young Asian man sat down and played beautifully until our train arrived. So long, Venice, we will miss you!

Our first train of the day took us north, through little Italian towns we’ve never heard of, right up to the border. For the first time, we saw changing leaves, bare branches and fall colors. Look at the mist rolling off the mountain. How pretty!

I didn’t realize until we were on the train that we would have to get out at the Italian border and make our way somehow to the train station on the Slovenian side, three miles away. I started to panic, as I had not researched how to do this. Jim was very calm, reminding me that we were not the first travelers who had ever taken this train. Sure enough, he was right as usual. When we stepped out of the station there were three taxis waiting under a big sign that read TAXI TO NOVA GORICA STATION 10 EURO.

In 10 minutes, we were officially in Slovenia, with a half hour to wait for our next train. We ordered espresso – now called kava – at the little outdoor cafe at the station. The day was rainy and grey, which really helped us feel like we were in Eastern Europe. There was a strange building on the other side of the tracks that looked like it had been disheveled by a stiff wind:

Our next train would take us further north to Jesenice, Slovenia. As soon as we got on board, the conductor asked to look at our ticket. “No”, he said. “Problem fix”. We asked what the problem was, but he didn’t have enough English to explain. At the next stop, a young woman got on, and he told her the same thing. He asked if she spoke English, and asked her to explain the situation to us, which she did in excellent English.

It seems that there was a big storm earlier in the week that caused the river to flood, and it took out one of the rail overpasses. We were going to ride for several stops, then all get off the train onto a bus to go around the washout. As there was only 40 minutes to our next connection, we were being told we would not make our third train. The conductor said he would call and let the next train know that there were three people trying to make that connection, but he did not know if it would help.

Now, when we looked out the window, we could see that the river beside us, roiling and brown, had overrun its banks in several places. I realized that we had also seen flooding in the Italian mountain towns this morning. Look at the brown water in the foreground:

We started to work on Plan B, if we missed our third train, and saw that there was one more train that would get us to Croatia four hours late. An inconvenience, but not a disaster. We wondered how we would contact our host, who was waiting at our apartment with our key.

At the next station, a dozen of us and the conductor got off the train into a waiting bus. The bus inched along a narrow road right next to the river. Whenever we came to a highway crew, we would have to wait while they moved equipment to let us pass. Several times, we inched over flooded roads with water cascading down the mountainside. Excuse the rain on the windowpane. Don’t you think thIs would make an excellent scene in an exciting movie?

Two towns later, we were back on a new train. Although the bus was slow, we didn’t think we’d lost too much time. Then the train went into a tunnel, and we heard the now familiar sound of water rushing past – the tunnel was flooded! In pitch darkness, the train inched through the water as slowly as a train can go. We were in that tunnel for what seemed like an hour, but was probably only 15 minutes. That’s a long time…

The conductor came by one more time, to tell us (via our new friend Anja) that it was now assured that we would miss our connection. Oh well.

As the train pulled into Jesenice, the conductor came back. Hurry! Hurry!
Sure enough, they were holding the train for us! We scrambled out one door and right into the next, and the train pulled out before we even sat down. Cue the theme music – a victory! We sat in a first class compartment with Anja for the next hour, while she peppered us with questions about American politics and economics. She has learned much by watching American TV (with Slovenian subtitles), and gets her news from John Oliver. She was very current, and wanted to discuss the Republicans winning the Senate. She was also curious as to why Americans had so much land that didn’t grow anything but grass. Couldn’t they put in a few fruit trees? They don’t take much work! The hour flew by, and we thanked her for her help and her companionship. Nice person of Slovenia!

We got off the train in Zagreb, and followed our handwritten instructions from the station to our apartment, as our TMobile phone doesn’t work here without exorbitant roaming charges. Oh, how I miss my Google Maps! We got to the right street, but then couldn’t find the right building number. A young man stopped and asked in perfect English if we needed help, then Googled our address to show us the right building. Nice person of Croatia!

And now we are in Zagreb, in a two bedroom apartment, full kitchen and washing machine, that we are renting for less than what we paid for a single room anywhere in Italy or France. We went to the grocery on the corner, and bought tonight’s supper and tomorrow’s breakfast for less than five dollars total. After Nice and Venice, now we can get our budget back on track. And today’s death-defying adventure was free!

Wednesday in Venice – Rain and St. Mark

November 5, 2014Italy, TravelBasilica San Marcos, rain, St. Mark, Venicekarenfranza

11/5 – what a difference a day makes! We awoke this morning to the gentle lapping of waves on the shore… of our hotel! It is raining, and this morning’s high tide brought three feet of water into the city. Here’s the view out our window:

With our breakfast, our host (sorry, he is Russian and I can’t spell his name) brought up some knee-high Wellington boots in different sizes, and offered them to us so we could venture outside. Oh boy! Just like when Lexi and I go out to splash in puddles! We got on our rain gear, and sloshed out to see Venice in the rain.

Some shops were closed, but for others it was business as usual, in boots and six inches of water. The hawkers on the square were selling ponchos, plastic boots and umbrellas. Elevated walkways, like folding tables, were erected over some of the deepest spots, and in front of the Cathedral. By noon, the waters began to subside.

Now, if you recall our quest, we are Looking for the tombs of the 12 Apostles of Jesus, to the extent that they are known. Here in Venice, we don’t have any of the Twelve, but we do have St. Mark the Evangelist, purported author of the Gospel to the Hebrews that bears his name, and one of the original 70 disciples whom Christ sent out to spread the Word. Close enough!

Mark was originally buried in Alexandria, where he was Bishop, and conducted his ministry. In the year 828, his remains were hidden under layers of pork and smuggled past the Muslims (who can’t touch pork) to Venice. This mosaic is in the Cathedral:

The Doge decreed that a cathedral be built in Mark’s honor. The relics were misplaced for a century, but eventually were found and installed under the high altar at the Basilica San Marcos. Here is the exterior of the Basilica, partially covered in scaffolding:

This cathedral is unlike others we have visited in that it is not lit in a modern fashion. The small windows, high up, don’t provide much illumination during the day. The candlelit interior must look very much as it did 1000 years ago. The low lighting helps explain why there was so much focus on filling cathedrals with gold – the reflective quality was needed to see!

The floor mosaics are particularly striking:

In the rear of the church is the high altar. We must pay 2 euro each to get close.
The silver casket is inscribed Corpus Marcus Evangiliste

Behind the altar is a large gold panel, encrusted with gems.

We moved on to a side chapel, to find a place to sit and meditate. Another good day.

Tuesday in Venice

November 4, 2014Italy, TravelCafe Florian, masks, Murano glass, vaporetto, Venicekarenfranza

11/4 – we slept in this morning, until we heard a knock on the door. Our breakfast, served on a silver tray – cappuccino, orange juice, croissants, crackers, and an assortment of butter and jams. A feast, and breakfast in bed!

When we left our B and B, the pavement was all wet, although the sun was shining. Had it rained during the night? No! The high tide had flooded the streets, as often happens here in winter. The shopkeepers were busy squeegeeing off their display windows to prepare for the day. Lucky the waters had receded by the time we came out. There are high end shops of every variety, liberally sprinkled with the local specialties Murano glass, and beautiful masks, reminiscent of Phantom of the Opera.

Today we took the vaporetto (water bus) from the Rialto Bridge around the city. The weather is turning, and we think we should get our outdoor activities completed today. We got seats on the back of the boat, so we had an unobstructed view. Here is some of what we saw:

The bus let us off at St. Mark’s Square, home of many pigeons and hawkers trying to shame men into purchasing roses for their ladies. The square is too large to capture in one picture, so here are parts of it:

Here is the famous Cafe Florian on the square, proudly serving espresso to tourists at $8.50 a swig since 1720.

The tourists get a kick out of having pigeons land on them to peck for food. I was raised in NY, where we refer to pigeons as ‘rats with wings’, so I have no desire to let pigeons land on me.

Here is the famous white limestone Bridge of Sighs, which once connected the interrogation room with the prison. Lord Byron conjectured that the guilty would take one last look at beautiful Venice and sigh before they were locked away. It is also said that if you pass under the Bridge of Sighs in a gondola, with your loved one, at sunset, and kiss while the church bells are ringing, your love will last forever. I imagine the gondolas must queue up here at sunset…

What a unique city, with a surprise around every corner. Tomorrow – St Mark’s!

When male and female combine

November 4, 2014Italy, TravelSt. Bartholomewkarenfranza

From Jim…

Beinghere

We are in Rome and plan to visit the bones of St. Bartholomew, St. Peter, and St. Paul.

We take the bus, then walk to Tiber Island to visit the relics of St. Bartholomew (also known as Nathaniel in the Gospel of John). The apostle St. Bartholomew (probably) went to India, Ethiopia, Armenia, and Mesopotamia to spread the Gospel. He sometimes traveled with St. Jude. He may have been crucified but a major tradition states that he was martyred by being skinned alive. Medieval portrayals sometimes show him holding a knife and his own skin. His remains were brought to Rome in 983 and the Basilica of San Bartolomeo was built to store them. His head is in Frankfort, Germany; an arm is in Canterbury, England.

We arrive at The Church of Saint Bartolomew.

I approach the altar and sit to meditate. Some chairs have been set up to the…

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Salerno to Venice

November 4, 2014Backpacking, Italy, TravelEuRail Pass, Venicekarenfranza

11/3 – time to put another notch in our EuRail pass, and make our way north to Venice. We hate to leave the warm weather, but our quest must continue, and Italy is one of the more expensive countries we’ve stayed in. The high speed train took us northeast from Salerno to Naples then Rome, Florence, Bologna, Padua and finally to Venizia, where we skimmed across the water as if we were in a boat instead of on a train. First class passengers in Italy get free espresso, wine and crackers on board!

It’s definitely jacket and scarf weather here, although still nice and sunny. As soon as we got out of the station, I was overcome with the realization that this place really is not like anywhere else. There is water where the streets should be! Houses have boat doors! Taxis have outboard motors!

Jim got us a B and B in the heart of the old town, just down the street from the Rialto Bridge. We were instructed to call when we got in, so the manager could meet us there. I programmed the phone, which said we were 15 minutes away, so I called. “No!”said the manager, “don’t call me until you are standing in front of the door!”

45 minutes later, I understood why. We went over bridges, down alleyways, and who knows where, trying to reach the address. Our phone instructed us to turn every 20 feet, and then cut out periodically from exhaustion. We finally reached the street, a well-lit row of shops, and called again. “Are you right in front of the door?” Yes! “Then I’ll give you the code to let yourself in.” Another 20 minutes of hilarity ensued, while we set off the alarm, knocked a painting off the wall, and enlisted the assistance of the young woman in the shop next door to interpret what the man on the phone was saying. Once we got in and found the light switch, we were in a very nice ensuite with wifi. Oh happy day!

So, now we are ready to go out for a light supper (after all our snacks on the train). We find a little pizza place right around the corner, and order an 12 euro pizza. This is much more than a pizza cost in Rome, but we’re cool with that. We enjoy our meal and ask for the check – 22 euro! It seems that in Venice you pay a coperto (cover charge) per person for sitting at a table, in addition to a service charge, which is a percentage added to the price of the food. If there is music playing, you also pay an entertainment charge! Sheesh! Our bad for not boning up on local customs before venturing out to eat…

We look carefully at the menu posted outside the next cafe, where it clearly states: espresso ordered at the bar: 1.50. Espresso ordered at table: 7.50. From now on, all our meals will be eaten standing up!

We walked through St. Mark’s Square in the darkness. Tomorrow we will explore!

A Day in Amalfi

November 4, 2014Italy, TravelAmalfi, Amalfi Coast, Apostle Andrew, Basilica of the Crucifix, manna, Salerno, St. Andrewkarenfranza

11/1 – from Salerno, you can get to Amalfi by taking a one hour bus ride down the Amalfi coast. The bus ride was stunning, and I couldn’t resist taking some pix out the window.

It is warm and sunny, and bathers are on the beach and swimming. Happy November! When we purchased our bus tickets, we were informed that today was a holiday, so the buses would run on a reduced schedule. Of course, it is All Saints Day.

Our goal today is the Basilica of the Crucifix, where the remains of the Apostle Andrew reside. St. Andrew, brother of Peter, was a fisherman, and it is noted here that he was the first Apostle. He was originally buried in Patras, Greece, where he evangelized and was crucified on a diagonal cross, then was brought to Constantinople during the Fourth Crusade, and finally to Amalfi in the year 1208.

When we reached Amalfi, the Cathedral is the first thing we saw, standing majestically on the square.

Although it was Saturday, there was a mass in progress, so we slipped in the back to participate. A bishop was officiating the service, and after Communion, there were a lot of extra prayers invoking San Andreas. The recessional started up the main aisle, then took a left and headed down a flight of stairs. Where were they going?

St. Andrew’s crypt lies under the cathedral, in a similar configuration to Matthew’s crypt in Salerno. The unique thing about Andrew is that his sarcophagus has always given off a substance, referred to as manna, which is collected several times per year and distributed to the faithful. Today was one of those days! That’s why the bishop was here! Amid prayers and song, the priest opened the gate to the tomb and took out a crystal vial, showing everyone that it contained a small amount of something.

The stuff was sprinkled on a bag full of cotton balls, and blessed by the bishop.

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Then the procession returned upstairs, and the cotton balls were distributed among the crowd. We did not get one. We had read about the manna before we came – what luck that we got to witness the celebration!

Here is Andrew’s tomb:

The statue of Andrew over the altar was done in the style of Michelangelo, by one of his students, also named Michelangelo.

The frescos in the crypt were not as well executed as the ones in Salerno, but there were many other artworks to see:

After the Cathedral, we spent the afternoon as tourists, checking out the little shops and restaurants. The nice thing about being a backpacker is that we have no desire to buy souvenirs, as we would have to carry them around for a year!