Category Archives: Thailand

Bangkok, Thailand to Osaka, Japan to Kyoto, Japan

Backpacking, Japan, Thailand, Travel, , , , , ,

5/9 – Time to boogie out of Bangkok. Bangkok is an airport hub, with less-expensive flights than can be had out of northern Thailand, which is why we traveled here. Today we fly to Osaka, Japan, for our long-awaited Kumano Kodo pilgrimage hike. We had originally planned this hike for earlier in the spring, but delayed it as we waited for my broken arm to heal. Happy to say, after two weeks of daily swim therapy in Pai, my shoulder is almost good as new, and I’m ready to hike. Japan had a cold, wet spring, so it is just as well that we waited to travel.

After our wonderful experience with Bangkok Air, I had an expectation that we would be given a meal on our 5 hour Air Asia flight – no such luck. We had to purchase our entree (the size of a cell phone) and water, accepting what was left when the meals we wanted were sold out. No movie, no nothing. image Chicken with one carrot and one potato.

We arrived at Osaka at 10:30pm, and queued to have our fingerprints and photos taken, then again for baggage inspection. The two guys in front of us had their baggage opened and spread out for all to see, but they let us walk on through (guess we don’t fit the drug smuggler profile). There were lots of nervous, agitated people in line, as the last bus and metro train leave at 11:30pm, and then all mass transportation shuts down until morning. We cleared the last queue just at 11:30, and congratulated ourselves for booking a room at the airport hotel, although the cost for one night is what we usually spend for a week’s lodging…

All the airport restaurants were closed, but we found a 24 hour Burger King, so we chowed down on our first Whoppers in over a year. It was served at table, with complimentary water and much bowing. After we finished every bite, we weren’t hungry anymore.

Our room was tiny, but the bed was soft, and we slept like the dead. We didn’t wake up until after 9am – very unusual for us. The shower was strong and hot. What do I love about Japan? You can drink the tap water, and plug your chargers right into the wall without an adapter! I usually have to rotate charging my iPad, phone and camera batteries, but here I can charge them all at the same time!

We found a restaurant full of folks eating breakfast, so figured this would be a good place to eat. The woman behind the counter motioned us over to a machine in the corner, where we could select what we wanted to eat by pressing a button, pay, then receive a ticket to present for our food. We couldn’t figure out how the machine worked, but a man came in, and we watched him navigate it, then followed suit.  (Put in money first, and available selections will light up.)image

Not sure what I ordered, but I ate it all – after using spoon and fork in Thailand, we are back to using chopsticks here.

After checking out at noon, we walked to the train station for our ride to Kyoto. Once again, there was a machine with only Japanese characters that had to be navigated to give us our tickets. Luckily, the nice man in front of us helped us, and showed us which track was ours. 90 minutes later, we were in Kyoto!image

We settled in at a nice apartment with a kitchen and a washing machine, so we are getting all our clothes clean while we are here. Know what else I love about Japan? Not only does the toilet seat heat up for your comfort, and make the sound of a babbling brook for those with shy bladders, and a refreshing warm rinse available when your business is complete (separate buttons aimed for ladies #1, or #2), along with a discreet fan feature, but after flushing, the clean water filling the tank is presented so you do not waste water turning on the sink to wash your hands! I’m definitely getting one of these babies when I get home!image

We met Jim’s friend and fellow college professor Carl for supper, for lovely food and to catch up on old times. A long and wonderful day!image

Bangkok, Thailand – the Grand Palace and the Amulet Market

Thailand, Travel, , ,

5/8 – We are only in Bangkok for a few days, and can’t hope to see all that the city has to offer. Jim has been here many times during his army years, and his years teaching in Asia.  This is what I would call a gritty city – full of smells and packed with people. The image above was spray painted on a roll-up aluminum door. image

The sidewalks are lined with food and trinket vendors so that you can only walk single file, and have to watch not to get burned on a steaming wok or flaming hibachi.  Great food, though, any time of the day or night!image

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Jim recommended that we see the Grand Palace, which contains the Emerald Buddha. We have already been to several places in Laos and northern Thailand where the Emerald Buddha used to reside Before King Rama I moved it to Bangkok in the 1700s, so it will be nice to finally see it and determine what all the fuss is about. The Palace was within walking distance, across a busy highway adorned with pictures of the Queen(?) and lots of elephants. Did I mention, it was HOT? image image image

The Palace was jam packed with tourists.  After covering arms and knees (bring a shawl or rent one), we went with the foreigners…image

The Grand Palace is a series of ornate buildings, most of which can only be viewed from the outside.

The exception was the Royal Monastery of the Emerald Buddha, where we removed our shoes and joined the throng paying homage. The statue is actually made of jade, but the first monk who discovered it, covered with plaster in the 1400s, saw a glimmer of green under a chip on its nose, and mistakenly thought it was made of emerald. The statue wears a different outfit for each of the three seasons, and it is dressed by a royal official for the Hot, the Wet and the Dry. This is the Hot. There were no pix allowed inside, so here is one courtesy of Google images:
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My favorite images are of all the guardians of the temple:image

We visited the Amulet Market, where Buddhists come to purchase tokens containing images of the Buddha, famous monks, or bodhisattvas. Some are as small as a dime, and some are full size statues, carved, cast, painted or photographed. Vendors line several streets offering their wares, and men with magnifying glasses pore over bins full of small amulets, looking for one that may be an antique, rare, or worth lots of money. I guess this is the Thai equivalent of stamp collecting.

Not knowing which to select, we followed some monks and bought the same kind they were buying. Monks should know, right?image

On our walk home, we saw Mother Earth squeezing her hair to give water to the world. Now you know!image

Bangkok, Thailand – Farang Scam!

Thailand, Travel, , ,

In Bangkok at 12 o’clock they foam at the mouth and run
But mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun. – Noel Coward

5/7 – After a month in northern Thailand where it’s pretty darn hot, we’re now in southern Thailand where it’s REALLY hot. Bangkok is a big city, known for its canals, (the Venice of the East), Buddhist temples and for scamming Farang (Westerners). Although we’ve been traveling for a while and consider ourselves fairly savvy, we got scammed here on our first day! Here’s our cautionary tale.

As we walked toward the Amulet Market early in the morning (trying to beat the heat, but it was already 85 and climbing) a distinguished looking and well-spoken gentlemen stepped up to advise us that today was a holiday and the markets were closed. Another man in a security uniform confirmed this.  The nice gentleman, who said he was a college professor, went on to tell us that if we needed something to do instead, he would suggest a wonderful boat ride through the canals of Bangkok that could be had for a special price during the holiday (the King’s birthday!) He warned us not to use a tuk-tuk with red or blue numbers, which would overcharge us, but only ones with a white and yellow sign. As he said this, a tuk-tuk with a white and yellow sign pulled up to the curb, and the gentleman told the driver to take us to the dock for 20 baht (60 cents). As you are reading this, you must smell a fish, but he was so smooth and it happened so quickly, we just went along. He wanted no money, didn’t seem to be selling anything, and who could argue with the price of the taxi?

At the dock, the driver got out (another red flag we missed – when does a cab driver ever leave his cab?) and introduced us to another gentleman who walked us down to the water’s edge just as a gondola (just like in Venice!) pulled up. Quick as you can say Bob’s your uncle, we were motoring away on a private gondola, our wallet lighter by 2000 baht (about $60.00). There was no coercion, and we could have refused to get in the boat. We did get a very nice hour-long tour of the canals, but found out when we disembarked that a) it was not the King’s birthday, b) all the markets were indeed open, and c) we paid double what we should have for the boat ride. Poor dumb Farang! Here are our expensive canal pix:image Our gondola

imageimageimageLots of flowers

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imageLots of temples

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imageThe Royal Palace in the distance

Walking back to our hotel, an English couple stopped us and asked if the Royal Palace was closed for the holiday. They had been persuaded by the same gentleman, but had sense enough to walk away. As we passed the spot where we had encountered him earlier, he was speaking earnestly with a French couple. When we approached and told the couple not to listen to him, the security guards ran up and tried to shoo us off – everyone gets a cut of this deal!

Of course when we returned to our room and googled Bangkok Scams, the first one that came up was “the __________ is closed for the holiday.”  Variations are used to sell fake gems, overpriced taxi rides, extract extra money for visas, and who knows what else.  Shame on us for not doing our research before setting out.  A smooth operation –  at least we got to see the canals!

Pai to Chiang Mai to Bangkok, Thailand

Backpacking, Hiking, Thailand, Travel, , , , ,

5/4 – Our do-nothing vacation in Pai comes to an end tomorrow. As we enjoy one more swim in the pool and one more climb to see the sunset, here are a few things we opted not to do in Pai:

Seeing the Long Neck Karen tribe: as tempting as this was for a short-necked Karen like me, we read too much about the exploitation of these Burmese refugees, who are paid to disfigure their women with neck rings to be ogled by tourists. I remember reading about them in Ripley’s Believe It or Not as a child (a long, LONG time ago!). Really didn’t want to view humans the way we view zoo animals, and the tribe does not benefit from the admission prices charged by the tour promoters. Here are pix off the advertising poster in town:

Riding an Elephant: there are lots of places in Thailand offering to let you ride/bathe/train elephants. Most of these places use bull hooks to jab the elephants, torturing them repeatedly to make them docile enough for tourists. We decided not to be part of that exploitation. The exception is the Elephant Nature Park in Chiang Mai, where abused elephants are rehabilitated and never ridden. We tried to book a trip there when we were in Chiang Mai, but the waiting list was several weeks long, and we were not able to go. If you really want to see elephants, book early and support ElephantNaturePark.org. image

I’ve been keeping my sister AJ in mind as we tour Thailand, as she and her husband would like to travel here some day. They are vegetarians. Don’t know how they would feel about the vegetarian restaurants here, which all seem to serve meat, like the House of Pork Vegetarian Cafe:image

Same problem at the grocery store, offering vegetarian shredded meat:image

Don’t worry AJ and Bob – you can always eat rice!

5/5 – Back to the bus station this morning for our 3 hour mini- bus ride back to Chiang Mai. Met John while we waited, a Vietnam vet. He and Jim traded old war stories – Bangkok was the place Vietnam vets went for R&R, and its proximity brought back lots of memories for them both. Arrived at Chiang Mai with three hours before our train to Bangkok, so we has a leisurely lunch and chatted with two young Aussies from Melbourne. Turns out they were taking the same train.image

 

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We were not able to book air conditioned berths on the overnight sleeper to Bangkok, so we are anticipating a steamy night. The windows on the train are all wide open – hope there is a breeze! image

This is the first long distance train we’ve been on that does not have compartments. The seats convert to upper and lower berths on both sides of the car, with curtains in front, like in old movies (Some Like It Hot comes to mind!) Here’s the sunset out the open train window. image

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5/6 – After a long, sticky night, we approached Bangkok, as the scenery changed from rural to urban.image

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Pai, we miss you!

Pai, Thailand – the Buddha on the Hill

Hiking, Thailand, Travel, , ,

4/27 – Since moving across town to the Pai Do See resort, our days have fallen into a comfortable pattern. The morning temperatures are in the 70s, sunny every day, with highs in the upper 90s by mid afternoon.  Birdsong and gecko calls are our constant companions.  The flowering trees are a daily delight.image

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We eat breakfast at the resort restaurant (two eggs any style, toast with margarine and strawberry jam, two franks that they call sausage, sliced tomato and cucumber, Tang and coffee). We take a walk; some days into town, some days into the mountains to explore.image

We’ve found the market where the locals shop, and stock up on fresh bananas, mango, and pineapple every few days. The market ladies know us and anticipate what we want. image

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Bananas are little here, just the size of a finger, but very sweet.

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Jim prepares lunch in our room by boiling water for instant noodles or rice, adding meat or shrimp dumplings and pineapple, followed by fruit salad. We eat on our shady terrace, and swim in the pool every afternoon. Some days we have the pool to ourselves; other days we have met travelers from Portugal, Taiwan, Israel, China and the U.S.

At 5pm we hike up to the big Buddha statue at the Wat Phra That Mae Yen – 400 steps up to the best place in town to see the sunset.image

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This temple is still under construction.image

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As 6pm approaches, we are joined by backpackers and bikers from around the world. We’ve had some great conversations as we sit on the steps waiting for the sun to drop behind the mountain – a different event every evening!image

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One evening we met Jessica, a nurse from Queens, NY, who had just taken a spill off her moped, and Sander, a businessman from the Netherlands. We talked the sun down, exchanging travel stories, then shared supper at the Sunset View restaurant. A lovely evening! image

The big Buddha on the hill, still under construction.image

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After the sunset, we go out for supper, either choosing a restaurant near our resort, or walking back to town. Plenty of cuisine choices, or we just purchase food from the food sellers that line the walking street – cold noodle salad, barbecued chicken or sausage, spring rolls, and fruit shakes. We’ve made friends at two restaurants, where the proprietors know us and offer us their best. Life is good. 

 

Pai, Thailand

Hiking, Thailand, Travel, , ,

There was nowhere to go but everywhere, so just keep on rolling under the stars. – Jack Kerouac

4/22 – We stayed four nights at the Hotel Pailifornia.  It was very nice, but at the wrong end of town for us – near the bars and the ticky-tacky tourist walking / motorbike street.  This town is full of young folks looking to have a good time and live on the cheap.  Room?  $9.00 a night (cheaper in a hostel dorm).  Supper?  $1.50.  Beer is more expensive here than in Laos, but $2.50 for a bottle in a restaurant isn’t bad, and $1.50 if you buy your beer at the 7 Eleven.  You can live pretty well for a long time in Pai.  We met kids from Finland, UK, US, Spain, Portugal and Germany, who just don’t see any reason to go home.  Right now, neither do we!

Speaking of the 7 Eleven, we have the opportunity to stock up on some provisions while we are here. The tube of toothpaste we’ve been carrying since Bulgaria finally ran out, and we were happy to see the familiar Colgate brand on the shelf. Little did we know that Colgate makes Salty Seaweed flavored toothpaste to please the Thai palate! Yuck is all I can say, but I’m sure we’ll get used to the taste…image

We also got some salty rice porridge flavored with fish or pork, which is what’s for breakfast around here. It’s pretty good once you get used to it.image

While staying at the Hotel Pailifornia, we hiked in different directions each day, to see what was beyond the tourist streets. Up the road was the yummy Canteen Restaurant, where we lounged on concrete couches under the trees, and found some unusual giraffes.
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In the opposite direction we found the Pai River and crossed over the bamboo bridge. (Wasn’t that a movie? Bridge over the River Pai?) Yes, motorbikes drive over this bridge.image

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Here there were fewer motorbikes and riverfront scenery.image

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The next day we walked across town toward the mountains, where we could see a huge Buddha statue on a hill in the distance. image

Here we found the Pai we were looking for – quiet, beautiful scenery, lots of restaurants within walking distance, and a resort with air conditioned cabins, and a gorgeous pool for $24.00 a night, including a full American breakfast! Guess where we will be moving tomorrow?image

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Chiang Mai to Pai, Thailand

Backpacking, Thailand, Travel, , , ,

4/17 – Well, the party’s over in Chiang Mai, so we may as well move on… We heard about a little town called Pai, (pronounced Buy) three hours to the north, where there’s not much going on, and folks just go to relax. Sounds like just what we need!

We tuk-tukked to the Arcade bus station in the morning, figuring we could purchase a ticket and just hop on the next bus. No such luck! Seems that lots of people want to go to Pai today. The only big bus was already gone (leaves daily at 7am), so our option was a minibus with a two hour wait. What do I do while I wait at the station? Get my hair cut, of course! Thank you, nice little lady with no English!image

We boarded the minibus at 11:15.  It was full, so our packs had to be stored on the roof – hope I don’t have a chocolate bar in there with the 100 degree sun beating down! image

Our driver was a wild and crazy guy who liked to take mountain corners on two wheels.  He announced, “Music!”, and popped a 70s greatest hits CD into his stereo.  We cruised to Pai on the BeeGees, Eagles, and Donna Summers – he didn’t know any English, but that didn’t stop him from phonetically singing along.  He, Jim and I were the only passengers who were alive in the 70s – the kids who filled the van could have been listening to Mozart – ancient history.

We stopped midway for a potty break – anybody want some chicken?image

And now we are in Pai, a sleepy hippie town filled with young folks on motor bikes, or brandishing bandages from falls off motorbikes. image
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We are staying at the Hotel Pailifornia (apologies to the Eagles).image

We could have chosen the Pairidise Guest a house instead – the mind boggles at all the bad puns that could be made here!image

How about Pai in the Sky? image

Our hotel is brimming with beautiful flowers and singing birds.

There is also a small spirit house, where fresh offerings are left every day. There is even a ladder, in case the little spirits have trouble climbing up!image

Although the hawkers on the main walking street have plenty of adventures to sell – ride to waterfall! elephant ride! see the best place for sunset! see native peoples! – it is our intention to take a vacation from our vacation and just hunker down and relax for a while. We had supper at a first-rate Japanese restaurant (Pai Su Shi), and it looks like we can stay a long time without running out of cuisine choices. I’ll let you know if we decide to do anything interesting!

Chiang Mai – Songkran and the U.S. Consulate

Thailand, Travel, , ,

4/15 – Last Day of the Songkran festival. Yesterday was our day of culture, so today we’re just going downtown to party. You may wonder where folks get all the water for the anointings – every shop owner helps the cause by filling big barrels or kiddie pools with water, and leaving a hose running if they have one. image

The old city of Chiang Mai is surrounded by a moat, and this turns out to be another great water source.image

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For supper we went to a highly recommended vegetarian restaurant, Bamboo Bee, which turned out to be a little hole-in-the-wall open air place with only four tables. All the dishes are also offered with meat. Bee gives cooking classes and offers an online cookbook. Best food we’ve had all week – pad kee mao was awesome. If you get the chance, check it out!image

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4/16 – Today we headed across town to the U.S. Consulate, so I could purchase additional blank pages for my passport which is nearly full. We had made the appointment online in Laos – today was the first day that the Consulate was open after the Songkran holiday. We walked for about 30 minutes, and were amazed to see the difference in the town. So quiet! Where did all the food stalls and bandstands go?image

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The long wall outside the Consulate was painted with murals, which gave me a flashback to the ‘death to America’ murals we saw at the embassy in Tehran. image

No worries – these murals were painted by school children, and it looks like they like us okay!imageimageimage

The Consulate was quiet, with only a few others waiting. Half an hour and $82.00 later, I have 24 more nice clean pages in my passport. Onward we go!

Chiang Mai – Three Kings and Wat Chedi Luang

Thailand, Travel, ,

4/14 – Day 2 of Songkran. The partying crowds are making it difficult to walk through the main part of town, so our strategy today is to head down the back streets to see what else Chiang Mai has to offer. The first sight we come upon is the famous monument to the Three Kings who worked together to found Chiang Mai. Aren’t they handsome? imageIn my mind, the Kings should look like Yul Brenner in The King and I…image

There are lots of temples here. image

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The most historic temple is Wat Chedi Luang.image

The City Temple did not permit women to enter. Here’s a mixed message:image

I’ll just stay out here with my elephant friend. image

Jim shared the murals that were inside.

Lots of decorations for the festival.

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A wonderful day!

Chiang Mai – Songkran

Thailand, Travel, ,

4/13 – Happy Songkran to you! It is our first day in Chiang Mai, and we ventured out into town by mid-morning to see what we could see. It is a warm, sunny day, and we could hear the birds singing outside. Our sweet hotel lady reminded us that it was the first day of Songkran, and we were going to get wet today, so I put my camera in a plastic bag and we left most of our stuff in the room. I asked her for more details about the New Year holiday, and she said that because it is very hot in Thailand, getting someone wet is an act of kindness, and that we would be wet with love and respect. That sounds so nice!

We didn’t have an agenda for the day, but getting new eyeglasses was on our list of things to do while we are in Thailand, and our map showed that we were just a 10 minute walk from the RAM Hospital with highly recommended eye doctors, so we decided to try that first.

The main street was already crowded with people and food carts, loud thumping music and young folks armed with plastic buckets and super-soaker squirt guns. As their attention was aimed toward the street, we tried to walk between the food stalls and the rows of shops, as the revelers were very polite about not wetting the proprietors or their food, and we didn’t want to arrive soaking wet. image

We made it to the hospital with the big green cross, relatively unscathed.image

Right inside the entrance were huge signs identifying each specialty area, with smiling staff waiting under each sign. We walked over to the Eye, Ear, Nose and Throat area, and asked if it was possible to get an eye exam today. “All doctors on holiday”, we were told, “come back on the 16th.” Drat!image

We walked back through the lobby and spied the ortho area. Maybe we could get my follow-up shoulder X-Ray while we were here? We explained to the lovely young receptionist (everyone seems to be young and lovely here!) about my broken arm and asked if it would be possible to see a doctor today? Of course! We were ushered right in, had my vital signs checked (I’m still vital, thank goodness), spoke to the doctor, was escorted across the aisle for an X-Ray, and back to review the results with the doctor, all within about half an hour. Happy to say that my broken arm is just about healed, but there is a little spur of bone that sticks out in the wrong place that is interfering with my ability to freely move my arm. The doctor recommended some physical therapy, and I was escorted upstairs where a lovely young therapist measured my range of motion, applied heat to loosen my muscles, gave me four exercises to practice every day, did some ultrasound therapy, applied a cold pack to reduce inflammation, and sent me on my way. Total for the exam, the consult, the X-Ray and the physical therapy, in a sparkling clean modern hospital where everyone speaks (some) English? $47.00. And they take MasterCard. Easy to see why so many retirees come here to live!

Now it was noon. The street party that was just getting started is now in full swing. image

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The sun is high in the sky, so no one seems to mind being doused. Everyone is very polite, wishing us happy new year as they dribble water down our backs or squirt our legs. They’re very careful not to splash faces, and they keep away from the street vendors. Trucks roll down the street, truck beds filled with young people throwing water out at passersby. image

The air is filled with the thump of techno music and the squeals of drenched young girls. Kids are having a blast. I can envision a similar event in the U.S. deteriorating into a drunken brawl, but alcohol is conspicuously absent from this party. Everyone is just having a good time, and so are we!image

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