Category Archives: Portugal

Starting Our Caminho – Lisbon to Parque das Nacoes to Sacavem

8/23 – For those who may not know, the reason we are in Portugal is to walk the Way of St. James, a pilgrimage walk of 385 miles from Lisbon north to the Cathedral of Saint James in Santiago, Spain. We completed the Camino Frances, across northern Spain west to east, in 2011, and liked the experience so much we thought we’d do it again from another direction. There are many routes, from different countries, all ending at the same cathedral. The Camino Frances is the most popular route, with dozens (sometimes hundreds!) of fellow pilgrims walking with you every day. This Caminho (the H is pronounced as a Y = CamEENyo) Portugues is much less traveled, and there are fewer pilgrim accommodations along the way.

So, today we start our walk. The challenge with this journey is that the towns, with places to eat and places to stay, are about 20+ miles apart. My definition of a good day’s walk is about 12 miles, and my personal best (without injury) is 15 miles. So! Fortunately, I am not the only person with this challenge, so we have learned some “work arounds” that should enable us to complete each step of the Caminho.

Our first goal is to walk to Sacavem, about 8.5 miles, then return to Lisbon by bus. Later in the week, we will take a train back to this point, and then walk the 13 miles remaining to the next town with accommodations. Easy!

We started out after our hostel breakfast of corn flakes and boxed milk, buttered rolls with jam, juice and instant coffee. The Caminho starts at the Cathedral Se, with a painted yellow arrow to show the Way:

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We walked past the tourist part of Lisbon, and encountered a huge Saturday flea market that ran down several blocks. Lots of people, most with just a few, used household goods to sell.

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We walked through the industrial edge of the city, until we reached the site of Expo 1998, Parque das Nacoes. There are many attractions for tourists here, including a large aquarium, the Oceanarium.

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We spent the afternoon enjoying the displays of all the ocean habitats from tropical to arctic. We saw puffins, penguins and sea otters, and all manner of fish coexisting peacefully in huge tanks. The sharks and predator fish are fed by hand on a strict schedule, so that they leave the other fish alone. Remarkable!

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Then we walked under the sky tram and the Vasco da Gama Bridge:

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Just before the town of Sacavem, we saw our first waymark for those walking the Pilgrimage to Fatima. Both pilgrimages follow the same path until we reach Fatima – Santiago marks in yellow, and Fatima marks in blue:

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We’ll return to this spot later in the week to pick up where we left off!

A Day in Belem

8/22 – today we crammed ourselves onto a tourist tram for the 30 minute ride to Belem to see the Monastery of the followers of St. Jerome, or the Mosterios de Jeronimos. image

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As soon as we cleared the ticket queue and stepped inside, Jim and I both got an immediate rush of déjà vu. This monastery is EXACTLY the same as one we’ve been in before! Was it in Spain? Maybe Italy? We’ll have to consult the archives… Anyway, we got to see the tomb of the great Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama, and learned a little more Portuguese history.image

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Belem is the port where Vasco and the other explorers set out from, so there is a monument at the waterfront of the all the Portuguese explorers looking outward toward the sea. Unfortunately, it was being refurbished, so we only got to see a few explorers, but you get the idea…image

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There was another tower to climb in Belem, but we’d had enough for the day, so we squeezed onto our return tram and made our way back to Alfama. On the way back, we spied one of many street performers on his lunch break, and another making his dog do all the work:

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What did we have for supper? Portuguese Chinese food – an acquired taste!

Alfama and the Cathedral Se

8/21 – today we took a closer look at the Cathedral where our walk will begin. Dating from 1155, it is a sturdy structure, lacking the curlicues of later churches.image

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During recent excavation of the cloister, archeologists uncovered a Moorish building, and beneath that, a Roman road and beneath that, Phoenician artifacts dating back to the eighth century BC.
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The Cathedral has a beautiful Rose window depicting the twelve Apostles, that drenches the pews in rainbow colors in the late afternoon. St. Thomas is at 7 o’clock, and St. James is at 10 o’clock. image

In the crypt is the tomb of Santa Ana, reading her book for eternity: (feel free to bury me this way also…)image
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The newer part of the Alfama district, by the River Tejo, is a sharp contrast to the narrow winding streets near the Cathedral. Thanks to an earthquake and tsunami in 1755, all the buildings near the shore were wiped out, so huge open squares were built:image

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We are getting the hang of the Portuguese written language, although we can’t understand a spoken word. Today we successfully withdrew money from an ATM, ordered food and negotiated a supermarket and post office. Fish is mainly what’s eaten here, with the local delicacy of octopus cooked in its own ink. We’ll let you know how it is when we figure out how to order it!image

Welcome to Lisbon!

8/19 – feel free to skip the following airline rant: we survived an overnight flight from Minneapolis to Frankfurt on Condor, flyer of planes with the world’s narrowest seats. My knees were jammed into the seat in front, which means poor long-legged Jim had to spend 9 hours practically in a fetal position. Needless to say, no sleep was achieved by either of us until our connecting flight to Lisbon. (And there was no choice of dinner or movie.) But we are here! End of rant.

We did a great job negotiating the Metro ride from the airport to the southern end of the city. We are staying in a small hostel in the historic Alfama district, a stone’s throw from the Cathedral Se. On our first (jet lagged) evening, we walked around to get our bearings. For supper, we ventured into a restaurant that looked like it had reasonable prices, and ordered two random items off the menu, as we could not read a word of Portuguese. We had studied words like frango(chicken) and carne (meat), but could not see any familiar words on the menu! I ended up with sausage and a fried egg, and Jim got purple meat (we found out later that it was pork marinated in red wine). Both dishes came with French fries AND rice – carb heaven! And so we survived our first day.

8/20 – Lisbon! A beautiful sunny city, not too hot, with narrow cobblestone streets as hilly as San Francisco.

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Lisbon has it’s own version of the Golden Gate Bridge, called the Ponte de 25 Abril:

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We enjoyed a variety of street performers as we walked up and down the narrow streets, including a statue that sprang to life and tried to cut off people’s heads!image

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As a result of my summer of hiking, I strode up every hill without huffing or puffing. Thank you, Jim, for making me walk 500 miles!