Category Archives: Hiking

Ölüdeniz – Kayakoy/Karmylassos

12/16 – today we went back to the Lycian Way and walked the other direction to visit Kayakoy, a hillside village that was abandoned after World War I, when the Turks drove the Greek Christians out of the country. The Greeks called it Karmylassos. Kayakoy is now being restored as a heritage site.

As we were walking, a car pulled up and asked if we needed a ride. We weren’t sure how much farther we had to walk to get to the village, and it was all uphill, so we jumped in. The Dutch couple had retired to Turkey, and thought we looked like foreigners. Nice People of Turkey!

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It was strange to see what ruins look like after less than 100 years. We have been learning about the fall of the Ottoman Empire and the nationalization of Turkey in the early 1900s. For an excellent historical novel that tells the story of this village, I highly recommend Birds Without Wings, 2004, by Louis de Bernieres.

The village was eerily quiet. Here is the St. Nicholas Church.image

The remains of a mosaic on a chapel floor: image

The houses had been painted pink and blue.image

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The houses were cut into the mountainside, so the downstairs room was cool. No hint of electricity or plumbing. Here are the remains of a kitchen hearth.image

We climbed to the top of the hill.

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Some of the buildings at street level have been repurposed as restaurants, as tourists are starting to travel here.

The grass still grows, and the flowers still bloom.image

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Such beautiful surroundings for such a sad story!

Ölüdeniz – Babadag and the Lycian Way

12/14 – One of the main reasons Jim wanted to come to this town is that it is the start of a 300 mile way-marked trail called the Lycian Way, or Likya Yolu. Without our tent and stove, we are not prepared to hike this long and challenging trail, but we would like to do some day treks to hike it part way. The man who rented us the apartment didn’t know much about it, so we are going to have to find it ourselves. There is a trail guidebook, but we haven’t figured out how to get Amazon to deliver it to Turkey!

We set out from our apartment on the road that leads up the mountain, figuring this would be the logical direction. It’s a beautiful afternoon for a brisk walk up a steep hill.image
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On the way, we pass the Hotel California – who knew? image

Jim investigates an old water cistern.image

The town where we are staying caters to Brits on holiday, and there’s lots of construction of condos and villas up in the hills.image

Fortunately, the original residents haven’t all been driven out.

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We see a sign and a flag at the top of the hill, and eventually reach it. It is not the Lycian Way, but the entrance to Babadag, where folks more adventurous than we come to parasail off the mountaintop over the ocean.image

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A lovely trek, but no Lycian Way here.

12/15 – Next day we set out in the other direction, downhill toward the sea. image
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We pass the group of old men downtown sipping tea. Guess every town has them. image

This time we find the right road:image image

The trail is marked with red and white blazes.image

We follow the trail to where we can see the Mediterranean Sea, and and walk the ridge until we can see the famous Blue Lagoon. The white sandy beach with clear turquoise water is where the sun worshipers flock all summer. It is a gorgeous sight.image

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A beautiful day in December, where butterflies still fly and roses still bloom. Life is good!image

Saturday in Medjugorje – Apparition Hill

11/15 – another warm, sunny day, and my hip is feeling better. Today we will climb Apparition Hill, where the six teens first saw Our Lady, Queen of Peace. It’s a two mile walk to the base of the hill, past hotels, souvenir shops and cafes. We are concerned that there don’t seem to be enough pilgrims to keep all these places in business. There are several new buildings that look like construction was abandoned halfway.

On the road we spied this sign, which leads me to think that the Last Trumpet will not be blown here!
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We reached the foot of the hill, and tried to determine the best route up. No clear trail has been established – people just start climbing from wherever they are.

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Not too far up the hill are two blue crosses, which mark the spots where two of the children received their visions. Many stopped to pray their rosary here.

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Despite the sharpness of the rocks, some, young and old, climb the hill barefoot. Many are assisted by their grown children or grandchildren. Many walk with a cane. There are reliefs depicting the mysteries of the rosary as we ascend.

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At the summit is a life sized statue of Mary, on a base shaped like a star. Many are praying, kneeling and weeping here.

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Behind the statue is a crucifix, where others kneel on the rocks.

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We made our way back down the hill, passing those on their way up. I can feel my feet bruising from being squeezed in rock crevices and hitting sharp rock edges. I’ve turned my ankle, and can’t imagine what those in bare feet must be feeling. I consider that Medjugorje asks more of its pilgrims than the other Marian sites we’ve visited.

In the evening, we returned to the church. Jim wants to see if the Risen Christ statue is still seeping. He purchased some little cloths with the statue imprinted on them at the souvenir shop, sold expressly to catch this moisture. There are many more people now, and we have to wait in line for a turn near the knee. The knee is not seeping now.

The other Marian sites had large areas for lighting candles. We know there must be one here, but haven’t seen it. We walked all around the church until we found this little area tucked away in a corner, with a flowing fountain. Very pretty and very peaceful.

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Friday in Medjugorje

11/14 – happy birthday Lauren! Love you!

Today is warm and sunny, a total contrast to yesterday’s grey skies. Shirtsleeve weather, no jackets required. My hip is still troubling me, but improved since yesterday. I plan to take it easy today.

After breakfast, we walked the half mile to St. James Church, in the middle of Medjugorje. This very modern church was built prior to the start of the apparitions in 1981. It is said that the building of the church, way too large for the size of the small town at the time, and it’s dedication to James, the patron saint of pilgrims, are part of the miracles of this place. IMG_4194.JPG

In the courtyard in front of the church is a statue of Mary. You can see construction of a hotel right behind. IMG_4174.JPG

Inside, a mass was in progress in English, with folk guitar accompaniment. The church is very plain, with arched windows and an arch over the altar, but no large crucifix or statuary. There is a Mary chapel off to one side, adorned with many flowers.

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Behind the church is an outdoor amphitheater with a Jumbotron and seating for thousands. This was added once pilgrims started coming in large numbers, following the Bosnian War in the early 90s.

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There are gardens behind the church with Stations of the Cross and walking paths with mosaics of the life of Jesus. Walking, praying and quiet contemplation are encouraged.

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Water seeps from the knee of this statue, erected in 1998, considered to be a miracle of this place. You can see where the color of the metal has changed from all the hands that touch this knee. People leave pictures and written prayer requests at the foot of the statue. Yes, we saw water seeping from the statue.

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On Friday afternoons, the faithful climb Cross Mountain, where they observe the Stations of the Cross. The large, concrete cross was erected in the 1930s, and is not connected to the apparitions, but the erection of the cross in this town is said to be part of the miracle of this place.

Unlike Lourdes, which caters to the wheelchair-bound, Medjugorje pilgrims must be fit. It is a two mile walk to the base of the mountain, and a steep, rocky climb to the top, which is more than my hip will allow me to do today, so Jim goes up alone. Some of the faithful go up barefoot, and many kneel on the jagged rocks at every station.

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Here are Jim’s pix from the top of the mountain.

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Monday in Split – Marjan Hill

11/10 – at the edge of the Riva is a staircase to Marjan (marYAN) Hill, Park and Forest, originally a recreational are for Emperor Diocletian and his people.

As soon as we started to ascend, we left the tourists behind.image

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About halfway up the hill is a small chapel of St. Nikola, and a Jewish Cemetery, both locked.image

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A gorgeous day.

Travel without leaving home

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In Valenca, there is a huge fortress, Fortaleza, which guards the Rio Minho. It has been a major military structure from early times but the main design took shape in the17th century.  It’s cannons are aimed at Spain. We descend on the north face and approach the international bridge that leads to Spain.

We cross the bridge.

We enter Spain.

Lao tsu talks about travel without leaving home. He refers to meditation and the fantasies that emerge when you cross from the outer to the inner realm. You can see images in the mind. The mind is a traveler but, from ancient times, people have found that the Inner Path involves stillness rather than movement. The true inner path is toward stillness.

We walk past a row of crosses. The mind is restless. It goes in all different directions but it has a fixed physiological structure. We note the way sign…

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A good traveler has no fixed plans

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We had problems sleeping in Porrino, our first night in Spain. There was a festival going on with much drinking. Around 3 am, a drunk guy pounded on our door calling out someone’s name. Eventually, he realized he was pounding on the wrong door. It seemed that he might break down the door but it withstood his blows. Someone he knew came out and they shouted at each other. Finally, they went outside and walked away shouting.

We walked out of town and it started raining.

It rained most of the day and much of our walk was through urban areas.

It is hard to keep a positive attitude when it you walk over uneven stones and concrete much of the day,  it rains hard, and the air is chilly.

We walked through Redondela and had trouble, at times, getting across the N-550 highway. We took shelter in communal washing…

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Padrón to Santiago

10/10 – today we walk the final 14.5 miles in to Santiago! We left around 8am (that’s about a half hour before dawn), with the intent to get as many miles in as possible before the rain started again.

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Around 11 a cold wind blew… then it passed over and we could actually see blue sky! It was exciting to see the markers count down to single digits:

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We found our hotel, showered and rested, then walked down to the old city to see the Cathedral.

IMG_2661.JPG It was covered in even more scaffolding than the last time we were here in 2011, but looked beautiful to us, even though the rain was coming down again.

10/11 – In the morning, we got into the queue to get our Credencial, the official document that says you have completed your pilgrimage.

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You do this by showing your record of dates and places you stayed and ate along the way. This record was as important as our passports – I’m going to feel like something is missing if I don’t have to ask for a stamp every night!

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An hour later, we had our certificates:

IMG_2698.JPG. We didn’t realize until we got home that the clerk had entered the wrong start date, 21 Jul instead of 21 August. That officially makes us the slowest walkers on the Camiño!

Then we headed back to the Cathedral for the Pilgrims Mass at noon. We got there just in time to snag two seats in the front section nearest the altar.

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The mass is totally in Spanish, but you can hear when your country and your Camino is mentioned. A nun with a beautiful soprano voice led the sung responses, and a choir sang during communion.

At the end of the service is the moment everyone waited for: with organ rumbling and choir singing, eight sturdy deacons hefted the world’s biggest thurible (incense burner), el Botofumeiro, and set it swinging across the cathedral. Word is that this tradition started because the pilgrims smelled so bad, but now it is the highlight of the pilgrim service, and is a wonder to behold. A pic doesn’t do it justice – go to YouTube and see any number of videos. Jim will post one soon on his blog.

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After the mass, we took our turn climbing the steps behind the altar, to wrap our arms around the golden statue of Santiago and thank him for our safe journey:

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Then down to the crypt, to kneel before the bones of James, son of Zebedee, Apostle.

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Pontevedra to Caldas de Rais to Padrón

10/8 – we walked all the way through Pontevedra with the plan to stay at the only pension on our map that was north of the city, to give us a jump on the next day’s mileage. Yup, you guessed it, the place had gone out of business years ago. Our guidebook let us down again… We didn’t want to walk back to town, so we kept walking until we found an open bar. Jim stuck his head in and asked if there was any place we could rent a room for the night, and a lady jumped right up and motioned us to follow. Sure enough, a new building with no sign, with rooms to rent, and right on the Camiño!

11 miles to Caldes de Rais, with rain, rain, then torrential rain. We got soaked through, and there was an inch of water in my backpack!

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Some people carry umbrellas rather than pack covers, but at the end of the day, we’re all just as wet.

Luckily, our pension had a washing machine, and, thanks to the spin cycle, our clothes came out much drier than they went in! (And smelled much better, too!)

10/9 – 12 more miles to Padrón, our penultimate day before walking into Santiago tomorrow. Our nice pension man told us that the rain wouldn’t start until 11am, so we got as much mileage as we could in the morning.

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Sure enough, at 11 on the dot, the rain pelted down. I was feeling cold and bedraggled when we passed by a little statue of Santiago. Even though I don’t like to take my camera out in the rain, I had to capture his expression. Standing all day in the rain, he looked as miserable as I felt!

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Here is the bridge into Padrón:

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We are staying at the Pension Grilo, which translates as Cricket. Imagine my surprise when we went down to dinner and saw their sign:

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Should we tell them that there is a difference between a cricket and la cucaracha?

O Porriño to Cesantes to Pontevedra

10/6 – well, we’re not in Portugal anymore… How do we know? Rain, rain, and more rain. The rain in Spain falls mainly in Galicia, and our forecast is for rain every day until we reach Santiago. That said, it’s (usually) a nice, soft rain, and still warm (in the 60s). Our clothes and boots are starting to smell like wet dog again.

The other thing that happened when we crossed the border was a time zone change of one hour. Now, instead of the sun not coming up until 7:30, it doesn’t come up until 8:30! We early morning hikers will have to get used to walking in the dark…

There are more statues along our path today. Here’s a few I snapped when there was a break in the rain. That’s Saint James, with his big hat and walking staff. His token is a shell, and many pilgrims carry a shell tied to their backpacks:

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11 miles to Cesantes, a good night’s sleep, and another 12 to Pontevedra. We started out at 7am, and were soon beyond the streetlights of the town. It was so dark, we had to use our flashlight to see the path ahead. Here’s a shrine we saw on the side of a house in the early morning:

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We continue to see more pilgrims each day, some of whom just started at the Spanish border. One has to walk at least the last 100 kilometers to qualify for an official certificate of completion.

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Pontevedra has a church shaped like a seashell, with a (rather effeminate) statue of St. James on the altar. We must be getting close!

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