We take the bus toward Fethiye, Turkey, passing through a world of fog. We are on our way to Oludeniz, where we plan to hike on the Lycian Way.

I don’t realize it, but I will walk through a heritage site, a monument to human suffering, a call for humility.

The next day, we walk to Kayakoy. It is a ghost town, consisting of about 400 abandoned Greek-style houses and churches.

We pass a church and hear some Turkish guys shout to each other. One has climbed over the church’s gate so that he can look inside.

We walk through the ruins.

Kayakoy was a Greek Orthodox Christian village with population of about 2000. In the early 1900’s, the Ottoman government engaged in atrocities against Armanians, Jews, and Greeks –forced deportations, death marches, and arbitrary executions.

In 1917, many Kayakoy villagers were sent on a death march and the roads…