So now we’ve reached Burnsall, a very small village with no shops or amenities, dominated by the 500 year old Red Lion Hotel, where we are staying.
There is a bridge here.
And a church.
After a refreshing and much needed shower, we went down to supper in a traditional English pub. Although this is definitely not a food blog, we are trying to experience and share info about traditional English dishes while we are here. If you are already acquainted with these dishes, my apologies.
Jim ordered shepherds pie (lamb, carrots and gravy under a fluffy mashed potato crust) with cabbage on the side.
I opted for the even more traditional haddock and chips, accompanied by a serving of mushy peas. After liberally applying salt, pepper, catsup and brown sauce, we pronounced all the food delicious. Everything you’ve heard about the blandness of English cuisine is, as far as we can tell so far, true.
June 11 – We walked around the tiny village of Burnsall this morning. The buildings are uniformly rectangular and made from the same brown stone, so the residents pour their energy into their front gardens.
This morning was our first opportunity to order what is called “the full English” breakfast, which consists of (clockwise) eggs any style, fried mushrooms, black pudding (a sausage that tastes sort of like liverwurst), bacon (we would call it ham), fried tomato, fried toast, sausage and baked beans. I’ve heard this meal also called “a fry-up”.We now understand why defibrillators are available here on every corner!June 12 – This morning we proceed nine miles to Kettlewell, which our guidebook promises will be a pretty and pleasant walk.
We started by getting our daily dose of sheep and cows.
We crossed the River Wharfe one more time, over a bouncy suspension bridge.
Here’s another tree stump filled with coins. Maybe for good luck?
We left the river, and climbed up into the hills, where there are lots of stone walls. Yes, for every wall, there was a stile to climb over.
We walked through the village of Grassington, which has a little waterfall and an interesting carving.
So, as we are walking along, all the sheep in the field we are traversing start maa-ing and baa-ing. Dozens of sheep. Maybe a hundred sheep. Jim wonders if we’ve upset them somehow. Next they all start running toward us. Oh no! Trampled to death by sheep? What a way to go! Over the horizon we hear the drone of a tractor, and here comes the farmer with the morning meal. The sheep run right past us, continuing to make an unholy racket until the tractor stops and the first handfuls of grain are thrown. Then blessed silence. Sheep!