Tag Archives: Casar de Cáceres

 Casar de Cáceres to Cañaveral

May 4 – So, as we planned our hike forward, we encountered a little glitch in today’s walk.  The alburgue in the next town of Embalse de Alcántara, about 10 miles north, is permanently closed, and there is no other place to stay unless we walk another 10 miles to the town after that. Twenty miles is not a problem for the robust young hikers who whiz past us every morning, but for us it is too far for a day’s walk.  We looked on the online Camino forum, and saw that several folks had success in getting a taxi to take them the ten miles to the Embalse (reservoir), then walking the last ten.  This sounded like the plan for us.

We asked the lady who rented us the apartment yesterday how to arrange for a taxi in the morning, and she stopped us in mid sentence.  I’ll drive you to Embalse, she said (in Spanish of course).  Would you prefer to ride down the road, or take a 4×4 Jeep down the actual Camino so you don’t miss any of the sights?  We asked for the 4×4, and she agreed to pick us up at 8am. Another adventure!

She picked us up promptly – Jim rode shotgun, and I sat in the back with the packs. We passed the other peregrinos who were just leaving town.  We waved at Carolyn, our only American friend.

We had to stop while a shepherd drove his flock across the road.

It looks like it’s going to be a beautiful day.

The Camino passed through several farmers fields, and Jim volunteered to jump out to open and close the gates so the Jeep could drive through.

More peregrinos!  They must have gotten up very early this morning.  We passed about two dozen total.  This Camino is getting popular.

Our host stopped to show us some ancient Roman stanchions.

After 45 minutes of driving, including several miles of highway, we reached the reservoir.

Our host pulled right up to the yellow arrow and pointed the way, assuring us that we would have all trail and no road walking to get us to Cañaveral.

We walked on old Roman road, past Rio Tajo, and through some pretty mountains.

The Hostel Cañaveral is a real treat, modern and colorful, and has its own restaurant where we enjoyed a scrumptious menu al dia. The town is small and quiet.  We walked past the closed church and admired the mountains beyond.
417 miles to go.

Cáceres to Casar de Cáceres 

May 3 – We hated to say goodbye to our Hotel Iberia and its breakfast buffet, but it was time to hit the road.  As we only have a 7 mile walk to Casar de Cáceres, we had an extra cafe con leche and left at 9am.  There was a lovely promenade on the way out of town, with roses blooming on either side of us.  So nice!

As soon as we were out of Cáceres, the yellow arrows deserted us.  We walked a while on the side of a busy highway, but that didn’t seem right.  We saw a path in a field to our left, and figured we must have missed a turnoff.  Jim bounded nimbly over the barbed wire fence.  Me, not so nimbly.  We walked for a while on what was obviously a cow path, until we came to the obvious cows.  They didn’t look pleased to be sharing their meadow with us.

We got to the top of a hill where we could survey the terrain, and, sure enough, there were a half dozen other hikers all walking along the highway.  Duh.  It took us two more barbed wire fences and one metal gate to get out of cow territory and back on the the road to Casar de Cáceres.  An adventure!

We had the choice today of staying in a hostal, or renting a two bedroom apartment with full kitchen and a washing machine for 5 euros less.  Guess which we chose?  A two minute trip to the Dia gave Jim the fixings of an eggplant mushroom chicken casserole, along with fresh strawberries.  Yum! Our clothes are hanging out to dry (yes, there was a washing machine, but nobody has an electric clothes dryer), and we are lounging in our living room.  Life is good!

After our siesta, we walked across town to visit the Museo del Queso.  As we had been to the Ham Museum a few miles back in Monesterio, it was only right that we should see the Cheese Museum too.  Friend Doug informs us that there is a Mustard Museum in Wisconsin. If we could get them all together, what a sandwich we would have!

This area is known for a special soft cheese made from sheep’s milk.  We learned as much as we could glean from the Spanish-only text.

While looking at cheese making tools and furniture, we struck up a conversation with Carolyn, originally from Chicago.  She is the first American we’ve met since we’ve been walking.  She just started her Camino yesterday.

Casar de Cáceres also boasts a fine church, complete with gargoyles and storks.

429 miles to go.