Nov 21 – This is our day to head south to explore the Garden District, where the New Orleans rich moved in the 1800s to get away from the crowded French Quarter. It is here that Ann Rice lived and placed many of her Vampire stories, and here that Peyton and Eli Manning grew up.
Some of these historical mansions have plaques indicating their age and the style in which they were built. Many contain more than one style, and are considered ‘transitional’.
This house is of the Greek Revival styleNice fountain One of the few we saw that were made of brickYou know you’re in a classy neighborhood if there is an Episcopal cathedral there!Tulane and Loyola Universities have beautiful campuses here. We spoke with a student from Maine who absolutely loves it here!Gorgeous treesMeticulous gardensLafeyette Cemetery #1 is walled off and locked upHere are the raised tombs that can be seen from the gate. The tombs became popular here as buried coffins would often flood and need T o be reburied.We read that the tombs can be opened once a year to deposit a new body and remove last year’s bonesI don’t think the green building is a tomb…Some houses are stately……and some are funkyStatuary that is classical….…and some that is playful We stopped into the Gracious Bakery on St. Charles Ave. for a mid morning coffeeThe cherry cream cheese turnover did not disappointGrecian columnsThis 1891 mansion was built in the Queen Anne styleThe Robinson mansion was built in 1857 in the Italianate styleSome have places to hitch your horsesWe had a recommendation to try the special at Stein’s Deli on Magazine St. We ordered a Cubano to eat later.Here comes the green St.Charles streetcar to take us back homeThe streetcar felt pretty stately tooSome wall art on O’Keefe Avenue for my O’Keefe familyBack in our suite we shared the Cubano sandwich we purchased at the deli and pronounced it “bon!”
Nov 20 – Today we ventured beyond where our feet could take us, further north to City Park. Our mission was to master the transit system and visit The New Orleans Museum of Art.
Our hotel concierge showed us how to download the Le Pass app, which magically integrated with Google Maps. Type in your destination, and you pay right in the app. A single ride is $1.25, but we paid for a 24 hour Jazzy Pass so we could hop on and off as needed. The fare is the same whether you choose a bus or a streetcar, so who wouldn’t choose a streetcar?
There are different color streetcars for different parts of town. Today we are on the red line. The streetcars run down the center of the street, between the lanes of traffic.In 20 minutes, we arrived at the New Orleans Museum of Art, situated in City ParkThe sea from the dead fishes’ perspective?Here are two different paintings of John the Baptist preaching to the people.Which one do you prefer?Interesting facesWhat is she thinking?Both of these have a local swampy feelThe artist is unknown A whole wall of sea-themed plates!We always recognize St. James when we see him. This is Santiago Matamoros – St James killing the Moors. Death Visits the BanquetThis is an odd one – Madonna and the infant Jesus flanked by John the Baptist (who you may recall is only a few months older than Jesus) and St. Peter (who did not meet Jesus until about 30 years later).Behind the museum was a huge sculpture garden with lots of interesting piecesLive oak with Spanish mossGatorBearSnailA mirrored labyrinth KarmaThis one was called Maybe, Maybe NotA horse for Lexi Then we jumped back on the streetcar and tootled back home!
Nov 19 – Another sunny day with a high of 80 degrees. Fine shirtsleeve weather, breezy and not hot enough to make you sweat. We walked through the French Quarter again today, taking note of the buildings that hug the streets.
There is wall art here!The St Louis Cathedral was open, so we popped in to see the inside. It was bright and airy with a painted ceiling.Closeup of the painted ceiling A feature of the buildings here are the many cast iron columns and railings – more ornate and more brittle than the wrought iron used elsewhereWe overheard a tour guide say that when the US asked for people to donate their iron to make munitions for WWII, the people of New Orleans said, “we will send our sons, but not our iron.”As we walked north, the buildings got smaller and more colorful In the Tremé district we found Louis Armstrong Park, built on the site of Congo SquareIn the early 1800s, enslaved and free Black people gathered here by the hundreds on Sundays, enjoying their afternoon off dancing and making music togetherTremé became an area known for jazz. Jon Batiste was born here!Spacious and tranquil There are statues of many jazz greats here, including Louis Armstrong……and Mahalia Jackson. The Mahalia Jackson Theatre is just behind.For today’s authentic New Orleans meal, we sought out NOLA Po Boys, where all the food is spicy! If you can’t handle the spice, ask for it “Yankee” style.The grilled shrimp po boy did not disappoint!A fine day!
Nov 17, 2025 – We usually use this blog to record international adventures, but a trip to New Orleans feels like an opportunity to experience a different culture, so I think it qualifies. Want to come along?
Jim booked us a direct flight, which takes about two and a half hours. Easy breezy! We left home in the afternoon and expected to be in NOLA for a late supper.
Without the excruciating details, let’s just say our plane did not pass muster, and the airline had to dispatch another from Louisiana. Our friendly representative cautioned, “I’d rather be on the ground wishing I was in the sky, than in the sky wishing I was on the ground.” Wise words.
Eight hours later, we were airborne at 1am. Our plan to hop on a city bus to get to our hotel had to be amended, as buses don’t run at 3am. One taxi ride later (the cabbie wisely quoted the exact same price as Uber) we were able to rest our weary heads. We are here!
Nov 18 – Due to our very late night, we are feeling as jet lagged as if we’d crossed the Atlantic. We decided to just walk in the sunshine and look around today. Here is Louis Armstrong, right outside our hotel.We walked to Jackson Square, a pretty park right next to the St. Louis Cathedral The Cathedral was closed, but the shop next door had some hilarious tee shirts We visited the famous Café du Monde, where one must stop for a cup of chicory coffee and a beignet – the New Orleans version of fried dough sprinkled with lots of powdered sugar.Right outside the cafe was a busker who treated us to some jazz saxophone Lots of carriage rides available for those who want to ride around townEmpanola famously puts anything you can imagine into an empanada. The aroma was lovely!Lots of voodoo imagery Here we are at the Jazz Funeral shopWe were on a mission to find the Central Grocery and Deli, home of the Original MuffulettaThe word muffuletta refers to the huge round fluffy bread that the sandwich is made with This is one eighth of the Muffuletta – salami, ham and several types of cheese topped with pickled olive salad – we’ll be eating this for days! Delicious!
July 17 – One more trip to the train station for our last journey south to the city of Mainz, also right on the Rhine River. We’ve had our own Rhine River cruise, without a boat!
Our hotel is right on a path that follows the river……with a shady corridor for strolling and sittingMainz is a city of many faces…many of them quite somberWe walked down to see St. Martin’s Cathedral, or the Mainzer Dom. Although Mainz was pretty thoroughly bombed in 1945, the cathedral didn’t suffer much damage.The inside was dark……and filled with bishops looking down at us disapprovingly …one on every columnI usually don’t show pictures of crucifixions, but this one spoke to meA pretty altarpiece, but absolutely no one is smiling…and a guy who’s lost his head!We walked around the old city and admired the architecture We checked out the Gutenberg Museum – Johannes Gutenberg was born and died in Mainz in the 1400sThere were several artists rendering of what he may have looked like, but he never sat for a portrait, so no one knows for sureHis invention of moveable type transformed communication and the worldWe saw two of Gutenberg’s bibles – only twenty-one originals remain intact worldwide. Only black ink was used for printing. The colorful capital letters and red highlights were added later by hand.We watched a demonstration of the moveable type process given totally in German. We got the general idea.Happy JimThe museum shared space with the Natural History Museum – a small but interesting collection of old stuffThis is the famous Fastnachtsbrunnen, or Carnival Sculpture …containing hundreds of characters from Mainz’s winter carnivalWe checked out lots more faces around town…then made or way down to St. Stephen’s. Another church? Are you kidding? Wait for it…St. Stephen’s was bombed during WWII, and lost all its windows. Nine new stained glass windows were designed by artist Marc Chagall, a Russian Jew, all in shades of blue. The windows contain scenes from the Old Testament, and were offered to show the commonality between Judaism and Christianity.In a close-up view you can see people…and flowers…and dovesThe church is bathed in serene blue light. Just lovely.And so our journey ended. We brought home a generic blue delft Dutch plate to remind us of our hike on the Pieterpad (although we didn’t see many windmills), as we couldn’t find any Pieterpad related souvenirs……and a plate to remind us of the places we stopped along the Rhine River. We’re tired, and happy to be home.
July 15 – Happy birthday to our dear daughter Jae! We packed our bags once again and walk the one minute walk back to the train station. Today our journey is just one hour south to the pretty little town of Rüdesheim, which is right on the Rhine River.
Our first view, walking in from the train station.Cuteness!Rüdesheim is a stop on the Rhine River tours, and the town was full of cruisers eating ice cream and shopping for souvenirs.Plenty of wall artThe Church of St. James is on the Camino de Santiago routeInside we saw James with his pilgrim staff and shell We decided that this was the town to give in to our bratwurst craving – these didn’t disappoint!No trip to Rüdesheim is complete without a tour of Siegfried’s Mechanical Music Cabinet, a museum of antique music makersThis one played Entry of the Gladiators (the Circus Song) so loud we had to cover our earsSome were from old merry-go-rounds, with beautiful workmanshipOur tour guide explained how the songs were imprinted on a metal plateAn old Victrola and a gramophone This one had an entire string orchestra and a player pianoThen it was time for – you guessed it – the cable car ride to the top of the hill!We got to look down on the Rhine River…and the rows of grape vines. This town is known for its winery tours, but as we don’t drink wine, we didn’t investigate thoseIt was pretty windy in the cable car!At the top of the hill was a huge statue called Germania, holding her sword down to indicate a desire for peace. It was built in the 1870s by Kaiser Wilhelm to celebrate the unification of Germany.…with images of War on one side and Peace on the otherThe multitude of soldiers with the Kaiser on his horse at the centerThe statue is too huge to take in up closeThen we walked back down the hill through the vineyards…and back to the river. Rüdesheim, we had a great time!
July 13 – Back on the train for the two hour ride south to Koblenz. This is a much smaller city, that sits at the Deutches Eck, where the Moselle River meets the Rhine.
Quaint architecture, old fashioned but not oldCute little statues with moveable armsA pedestrian shopping street They have a Woolworth here!We looked into the Church of Our Lady, which has been an active parish since the 600s. Parts of this building dates from 1180, with renovations after WWII.The altarpiece New stained glassA bit of wall art the sign says “to the little kettle”These statues had little plaques posted next to them, but we didn’t get the jokes…Pretty flourishesWe walked toward the river A statue of Kaiser Wilhelm on his horse, accompanied by an angelThis is the Eck (corner) – where the Moselle River on the right flows into the RhineRhine River cruises on one sideA not very old (rebuilt) castle on the other sideThere is a monument celebrating all the different regions that make up GermanyWe popped into the modern art museum. There was one Picasso….… but otherwise, we were not impressed I had been craving a good doner for a while, and this was the town to get one. With the addition of a little red cabbage for a uniquely German twist, it was delicious!Thanks Koblenz – we had a great time!
July 11 – Now that our hiking is done, what should we do with our remaining time? Rather than a long travel day back to Frankfurt, we decided to stop in four German cities along the way. Today’s goal is Cologne, or in German, Köln.
One last lovely yogurt, fruit, ham and cheese breakfast We walked to the Maastricht train station with our big packs on our backs – no more luggage transport for us…and stepped off the eastbound train two hours later in Cologne, Germany. As soon as we left the rail station, we ran smack into the Cologne Cathedral of St. Peter, or Kölner Dom, the tallest twin-spired church in the world, and the tallest cathedral in the world. Pictures cannot convey the BIGNESS of this place. It dominates the skyline.Can you see the gold sarcophagus on the main altar? It’s very far away! The building of the cathedral started in the 1200s as a place to display the reliquaries of the Magi, or the shrine of the Three Kings, but building was not completed until the 1880s.Vibrantly colored stained glassSt. Christopher carrying the Christ childThe cathedral was bombed 14 times during WWII, and remained standing while all the surrounding buildings were destroyed A richly colored Madonna and childPlenty of dead bishops lying in state…including St Engelburtus, who remained jaunty even in deathJim noticed that many of the bishops are shown with dogs at their feet, and also lions and birds. These depictions were thought to comfort and protect the deceased in the afterlife, or to represent the qualities of loyalty and strength they showed in life. You decide.Modern painting on the ceilingMother of all?I’m always looking for female representation. Are angels female?Back out on the street, we see and smell the 4711 (sieben und vierzig elf) building. 4711 is the essence of Cologne, and one of my favorite scents. My Oma wore it, and I keep a bottle of it at home to occasionally sniff.We walked across the city to the Botanical Gardens, or Flora und Botanischer Garten. Why walk in the city when you can walk in a garden?An aroma garden dominated by sweet daphne Water lilies in many colorsWe walked back along the Rhine River, where there were lots of boats taking tourists for river cruises. See the cathedral? It’s taller than any of the downtown buildings.And we’re back to the crowds, with tons of folk at the sidewalk cafes sharing lunch and beer. A fine day!
July 10 – All good things must come to an end. Today is our last hiking day. 12.75 miles planned.
This sign in the stairway of our hotel summed up our Netherlands hiking experience. Not only is there never an elevator, each hotel assumes that because we are hikers we won’t mind walking up to the top floor!Bye, Valkenburg!Lots of suburbs to walk through Finally, a dirt trail!Blackberries for the pickingWhat a happy guy!Off he goes!A ranch emblem made of horseshoes Good advice at the poultry farmMore potatoes Limestone cavesCows just love meHeading into the suburbs before Maastricht, which go on a long wayThe Dutch are so meticulous – have you ever seen such a perfectly trimmed weeping willow?Approaching the cityCrossing the bridge over the river MeuseHere we are!Many people stop to offer a prayer to the Virgin hereOld architecture Passing out the other side of the city on the way to Mt. St. PieterThe old fortElevation! There’s Maastricht down belowHigher we climb…and then…Ta da! We are at the end of the Pieterpad! Another couple who had just completed took our picture.Back to the city, we checked into Hotel Les Charmes, a delightful place where all the tables are made of old suitcasesThe streets were super crowded this evening, and traffic was blocked to facilitate the free concert by hometown hero violinist André Rieu. We were told that he is the most famous violinist in the world.Snaking through the crowd, we managed to find our restaurant. As a reward for a job well done, we treated ourselves to a spicy Singapore pho dinner, filled with seafood. Yum! We did it!
July 9 – Returning to Valkenburg gave us a sweet sense of deja vu – this is the town where we holed up for eleven days while recovering from COVID way back in 2023. We stayed longer in this town than just about anywhere we’ve ever been. We walked every corner of Valkenburg while regaining our strength.
Here is where we learned to love Albert Heijn supermarkets – Jim has carried his Albert Heijn discount card in his wallet for two years, and was so happy to use it again!
So we didn’t feel the need to explore this lovely town, filled with sidewalk cafes and bustling with tourists. For us it felt like coming home.
We stopped by the Marx Motel, just to make sure it was still there I couldn’t stop myself from snapping away at the old wall ads on every street Hello, old castle ruinHello lions!Hello family statueI see they still haven’t refurbished all the wall artHello flying goat!…and the mosaic bench in front of the library It was a lovely trip down Memory Lane, and yes, we did visit the Albert Heijn. We are feeling nostalgic – our Pieterpad hike ends tomorrow.