Pieterpad: Groesbeek to Gennep

June 26 – Our first hiking day dawned to the sound of thunder and the patter of raindrops. We’ll be using our rain gear today! Our walk is planned for 8.5 miles – an easy first day.

The Pieterpad, the Netherlands most famous trail, runs from Pieterboro in the north, to St. Pieter’s hill in the south, and can be walked in either direction. We are starting in the middle and walking south. There are different routes for hikers, cyclists and horses.

Leaving the hotel
Instead of a map, our tour company gave us the GUIBO app, containing turn by turn directions of our customized itinerary. We learned early in the day that a nice path straight ahead is not necessarily the right way to go.
After taking a wrong turn, we got a text informing us that we had left the trail, but not telling us where, or how to get back on track. So, we turned around and walked back until the app said we were, once again, on the route. After that, we checked our phones every few minutes for the rest of the day, like teenagers scrolling for new TikToks.
My trail umbrella attaches nicely to my daypack (under my jacket) so I can use both hands for my trekking poles. If I had a third hand to hold my phone, life would be ideal!
Pretty berries
Wait for me, Jim!
So still and tranquil
Cows in the rain
A horse looks like she’s wearing a raincoat too!
An old icehouse, used to store food in the hot summer
A gnarly tree
Have we reached Troy?
We walked through the little town of Milsbeek, home of another WWII cemetery filled with foreign soldiers
Locks of love!
Almost there
And now we are in the lovely town of Gennep, (pronounced Chhhhennep like you are clearing your throat), and the rain has stopped. A fine first hiking day!

Xanten to Groesbeek

June 25 – Today Boris and his friend Simon picked us up in the morning for the 45 minute drive over the German border into the Netherlands. There is no border, of course, just a sign on the highway. We are heading to the town of Groesbeek, where we will start our Pieterpad hike tomorrow.

We bid adieu to Simon and Boris
We checked into the lovely de Wolfsberg Hotel, then walked into town to see what there were to see.
Groesbeek is best known for the Museum of Freedom, or Vrijheidsmuseum, shaped like a parachute, and dedicated to the WWII participants in Operation Market Garden in 1944
There were so many thought-provoking displays in this museum, including examples of Dutch citizens during the Occupation. If it were you, would you work for the Germans to feed your family, lay low and wait for it all to be over, or join the Resistance? Good questions for us to ponder today.
One of Dr Seuss’ many wartime cartoons encouraging the U.S. to actively join the Allies
A different version of Rosie the Riveter, by Norman Rockwell
This chart was depicted in 3D in the final room of the museum. I had always thought about the war being about Germans, Japanese, Brits and Americans, and was astounded to see the number of Soviet and Chinese dead. Very sobering…
A sculpture of souls rising up from the many local cemeteries after the war, to see how it all turned out. This museum blew my mind. If you ever get the opportunity, please go!

On to Xanten

June 22 – This morning we took the metro back into Frankfurt, a long train to Duisburg and a short train to Xanten. We were met at the station by Jim’s dear friend Boris and his daughter Sofia. We are here for just a few days so that Jim and Boris can catch up. Then we will start our Pieterpad hike.

Boris and his wife Anke treated us to a wonderful barbecue with grilled eggplant and mushrooms, shish kebab, and all kinds of meat – steak, chicken and sausage. Their son Louis (17 and a student) speaks excellent English, as does Boris and Sofia (23 and a pediatric nurse). Little Emily (6 and just completed kindergarten) was cute as a button.

Boris and Jim
Xanten is is pretty little town with interesting shops
…a pedestrian shopping street
…stately buildings
…historical buildings
…an old church
…kitschy house decorations
…and wall art!
Beautiful flowers
We had a wonderful time visiting with Boris and his family!

Palmengarten

June 21 – For our final day in Frankfurt, we walked over to visit the historic Palmengarten, developed by architect Heinrich Siesmayer, and opened to the public in 1871. Most of the buildings were damaged or destroyed in WWII, but were refurbished starting in the 1960s. The gardens were reopened in 1992.

Shady hosta
Bee still, my heart?
Lush tropical flora indoors
There was a tiny subterranean aquarium with colorful fish
A little pond with paddle boats and ducks
Daylilies in many colors
Even a waterfall!
Orchids
Hibiscus
These begonia leaves are my favorites!
Beautiful roses
A lovely day!

Frankfurt am Main

June 20 – Now it is Friday and Frankfurt is back to normal after yesterday’s holiday. The shops are open, and traffic is zipping along.

Lots of folks ride bicycles here, and we see all sorts of contraptions to enable families to ride together. There are clearly marked bike lanes, and e-scooters for rent on every corner.
We headed back downtown with the idea to look inside the Cathedral of St. Bartholomew, which was off-limits yesterday
A friendly face at the altar
Medieval bas reliefs on the walls
A strange last supper – looks like poor John was overserved
A blond curly haired Jesus
Every cathedral visit must include a climb up to the top of the bell tower for a view of the city
The beautiful Main River
This statue is of David and the remains of Goliath
We wondered who this protest was for: Palestinians perhaps? Nope – poor chickens and pigs that are eaten against their will
Where to eat lunch? We are surprised to see so many signs in English. This place is not sure if it has the best falafel…
A lovely day in the city!

Happy Corpus Christi

June 19 – After a rocky attempt at a night’s sleep, we thought a nice walk in the sunshine would help reset our internal clocks. We ate our breakfast of fruit, yogurt, brown bread and cheese, downed a few cups of strong coffee, and set out toward town.

The first thing we noticed was that the supermarket we visited yesterday was not open – unusual for a Thursday, don’t you think? As we walked along, the streets seemed very quiet. As we approached the center of town, we saw that all the stores were closed. What’s up? Time to consult Google!

It turns out that today is the state holiday of Corpus Christi (body of Christ), a celebration of the Eucharist by the Roman Catholics here since the year 1246; always falling on the tenth day after Pentecost.

We made our way toward the cathedral, figuring that is where the action would be, and we were right.

The entire square was filled with folks participating in an outdoor mass, with dozens of priests handing out communion wafers.
Parades of priests, acolytes and musicians worked their way through the crowds
Lots of nuns in different colors
The shops were closed, but the buskers were out to entertain
This guy was whistling behind his happy mask
They have wall art here!
Happy monks
You may say I’m a dreamer, but I’m not the only one… We had enough excitement for one day, so went back to relax at our tropical hotel. More tomorrow!

Pieterpad – Take Two!

June 17, 2025 – You may remember that Jim and I had plans to hike the Pieterpad in the Netherlands back in the fall of 2023. Instead, we both got Covid and spent most of our vacation holed up in a motel, waiting to feel better.

Jim is not a person who can let a good trail go unhiked, so we are on our way back to Germany and the Netherlands to try again. Here’s to a healthy month!

June 18 – We flew from Norfolk to Newark, walking off one plane and directly onto the plane to Frankfurt with no incidents to report. We figured out the Frankfurt subway sufficiently to get to our hotel. Once we found the correct train, it was easy peasy, with stops displayed and spoken in both German and English.

We are staying at the Rioca, a Brazilian themed hotel with tropical furnishings and recorded bird calls in the hallways. We’ll be here a few days to get over our jet lag.

Feels like we’re in Rio!
The sign outside our hotel door, in case we forget where we are staying
The hotel has a rooftop restaurant with a lovely view of the city
We ventured out to find a grocery store. Fields of wildflowers are planted along the walkway to attract birds and insects. With only two hours of sleep last night, we tumbled gratefully into bed. Tomorrow we will explore!

More from Puerto de la Cruz, Tenerife

Feb 23 – So, for our last days in Puerto de la Cruz, we walked along the beach, browsed in the shops, visited churches, ate good food, and acted like the tourists that we are.

More of the lovely carved wooden balconies
This statue of a fishmonger at the water’s edge reminded me of my Irish Grandpa singing Sweet Molly Malone
…crying, “cockles and mussels alive alive oh!”
When we turned the corner, I saw that I wasn’t the only one who was thinking of Molly Malone
There are armaments to defend the Puerto
…and a seaside museum of ship photos and models
In the same museum, we came across another image of a seated, tired Jesus
Faces in the street
In the Iglesia de San Francisco…
…another seated, weary Jesus
A busker playing marimba
…and one dressed like Elvis (?) singing Johnny Cash
At the supermarket, the lady in charge of slicing the Iberian ham would not let me take a picture of the hams, so I had to sneak around the corner and snap surreptitiously!
We watched the paragliders swoop overhead
…until one landed right on the sidewalk, to the amazement of everybody
A metallic palm tree
And finally, all the way across town, wall art!
And whale art!
The little images are Bo Peep and her sheep
The city is setting up for Carneval celebrations – see El Teide in the background?
…so it must be time for us to go home.
Feb 26 – 90 minutes on the bus got us back to the southern part of the island where the airport is. We had a no-drama flight to Newark and actually caught an early flight home to Virginia. Our dog still loves us. We loved Tenerife!

Jardín Botánico, Tenerife

Feb 21 – This morning we fortified ourselves with an extra cup of coffee, and set out to find the Botanical Garden. It isn’t too far, but it’s uphill all the way.

Up, up and up some more
Welcome to Jardín de Aclimatacion de la Orotava
They have irises here
…and orchids
…and things we’ve never seen before
Big trees
…and really big trees
…and should this be considered one tree? It looks like a bunch!
Round things
Pointy things
Lots of varieties packed into a small space – just one city block
Peace lilies floating in the pond
Jim watched to see if someone would trip over the tree roots…
…but no one did
Lots of pretty ferns
Jackfruit
A great day!

Puerto de la Cruz, Tenerife

Feb 19 – One more leisurely breakfast, then we packed up and walked to the bus stop for our ride to the bus station. We knew right where to find our next intercity bus, and hopped on a minute before it pulled away. 45 minutes later, we arrived in Puerto de la Cruz.

This city is the northernmost destination of our trip, and also the warmest, with daily highs around 72 – 75F. Puerto de la Cruz is all about the beaches. We walked to our new very modern apartment and settled in. We are one building away from the Atlantic, and the surf here is robust, with the soothing sound of breakers that will lull us to sleep at night.

The view from our terrace looking toward the Atlantic
The view looking the other way toward El Teide. Remember when we were at the top of the volcano looking toward the ocean? Puerto is the town we were looking at.
Jim checks out the temperature of the pool – lots of people sunning, but not swimming
We walked down to the beach. The black volcanic sand looks odd, and the big rocks look treacherous. See the surfers riding the waves in?
One lonely busker singing for his supper
We walked along the shoreline…
…then up into the hills
The ocean is a beautiful azure
We looked down to see a pool with two hardy swimmers. Every few minutes a wave would crash over, refilling the pool. We could not see a way to get down to the pool, and figured there must be a tunnel from the hotel across the way.
When the path ended, we turned around to walk home and find some food.
I think we’re going to like it here!