Last Stop: Mainz

July 22, 2025Germany, TravelCathedral of St. Martin, Gutenberg Museum, Mainz, Mainzer Dom, Marc Chagall stained glass, Rhine River, St. Stephenkarenfranza

July 17 – One more trip to the train station for our last journey south to the city of Mainz, also right on the Rhine River. We’ve had our own Rhine River cruise, without a boat!

Our hotel is right on a path that follows the river…

…with a shady corridor for strolling and sitting

We walked down to see St. Martin’s Cathedral, or the Mainzer Dom. Although Mainz was pretty thoroughly bombed in 1945, the cathedral didn’t suffer much damage.

…and filled with bishops looking down at us disapprovingly

I usually don’t show pictures of crucifixions, but this one spoke to me

A pretty altarpiece, but absolutely no one is smiling

We walked around the old city and admired the architecture

We checked out the Gutenberg Museum – Johannes Gutenberg was born and died in Mainz in the 1400s

There were several artists rendering of what he may have looked like, but he never sat for a portrait, so no one knows for sure

His invention of moveable type transformed communication and the world

We saw two of Gutenberg’s bibles – only twenty-one originals remain intact worldwide. Only black ink was used for printing. The colorful capital letters and red highlights were added later by hand.

We watched a demonstration of the moveable type process given totally in German. We got the general idea.

The museum shared space with the Natural History Museum – a small but interesting collection of old stuff

This is the famous Fastnachtsbrunnen, or Carnival Sculpture

…containing hundreds of characters from Mainz’s winter carnival

We checked out lots more faces around town

…then made or way down to St. Stephen’s. Another church? Are you kidding? Wait for it…

St. Stephen’s was bombed during WWII, and lost all its windows. Nine new stained glass windows were designed by artist Marc Chagall, a Russian Jew, all in shades of blue. The windows contain scenes from the Old Testament, and were offered to show the commonality between Judaism and Christianity.

The church is bathed in serene blue light. Just lovely.

And so our journey ended. We brought home a generic blue delft Dutch plate to remind us of our hike on the Pieterpad (although we didn’t see many windmills), as we couldn’t find any Pieterpad related souvenirs…

…and a plate to remind us of the places we stopped along the Rhine River. We’re tired, and happy to be home.

Off to Rüdesheim am Rhein

July 18, 2025Germany, TravelGermania, Rudescheim-am-Rhein, Siegfried’s Mechanical Museum, Siegfried’s Musikkabinett, wall artkarenfranza

July 15 – Happy birthday to our dear daughter Jae! We packed our bags once again and walk the one minute walk back to the train station. Today our journey is just one hour south to the pretty little town of Rüdesheim, which is right on the Rhine River.

Our first view, walking in from the train station.

Rüdesheim is a stop on the Rhine River tours, and the town was full of cruisers eating ice cream and shopping for souvenirs.

The Church of St. James is on the Camino de Santiago route

Inside we saw James with his pilgrim staff and shell

We decided that this was the town to give in to our bratwurst craving – these didn’t disappoint!

No trip to Rüdesheim is complete without a tour of Siegfried’s Mechanical Music Cabinet, a museum of antique music makers

This one played Entry of the Gladiators (the Circus Song) so loud we had to cover our ears

Some were from old merry-go-rounds, with beautiful workmanship

Our tour guide explained how the songs were imprinted on a metal plate

This one had an entire string orchestra and a player piano

Then it was time for – you guessed it – the cable car ride to the top of the hill!

…and the rows of grape vines. This town is known for its winery tours, but as we don’t drink wine, we didn’t investigate those

At the top of the hill was a huge statue called Germania, holding her sword down to indicate a desire for peace. It was built in the 1870s by Kaiser Wilhelm to celebrate the unification of Germany.

…with images of War on one side and Peace on the other

The multitude of soldiers with the Kaiser on his horse at the center

The statue is too huge to take in up close

Then we walked back down the hill through the vineyards

…and back to the river. Rüdesheim, we had a great time!

And Now To Koblenz

July 16, 2025Germany, TravelDeutches Eck, Koblenzkarenfranza

July 13 – Back on the train for the two hour ride south to Koblenz. This is a much smaller city, that sits at the Deutches Eck, where the Moselle River meets the Rhine.

Quaint architecture, old fashioned but not old

We looked into the Church of Our Lady, which has been an active parish since the 600s. Parts of this building dates from 1180, with renovations after WWII.

A bit of wall art the sign says “to the little kettle”

These statues had little plaques posted next to them, but we didn’t get the jokes…

A statue of Kaiser Wilhelm on his horse, accompanied by an angel

This is the Eck (corner) – where the Moselle River on the right flows into the Rhine

A not very old (rebuilt) castle on the other side

There is a monument celebrating all the different regions that make up Germany

We popped into the modern art museum. There was one Picasso….

I had been craving a good doner for a while, and this was the town to get one. With the addition of a little red cabbage for a uniquely German twist, it was delicious!

On to Cologne

July 14, 2025Germany, Travel4711, Botanical Gardens, Cathedral of St.Peter, Cologne, Köln, Kölner Domkarenfranza

July 11 – Now that our hiking is done, what should we do with our remaining time? Rather than a long travel day back to Frankfurt, we decided to stop in four German cities along the way. Today’s goal is Cologne, or in German, Köln.

One last lovely yogurt, fruit, ham and cheese breakfast

We walked to the Maastricht train station with our big packs on our backs – no more luggage transport for us

…and stepped off the eastbound train two hours later in Cologne, Germany. As soon as we left the rail station, we ran smack into the Cologne Cathedral of St. Peter, or Kölner Dom, the tallest twin-spired church in the world, and the tallest cathedral in the world. Pictures cannot convey the BIGNESS of this place. It dominates the skyline.

Can you see the gold sarcophagus on the main altar? It’s very far away! The building of the cathedral started in the 1200s as a place to display the reliquaries of the Magi, or the shrine of the Three Kings, but building was not completed until the 1880s.

St. Christopher carrying the Christ child

The cathedral was bombed 14 times during WWII, and remained standing while all the surrounding buildings were destroyed

…including St Engelburtus, who remained jaunty even in death

Jim noticed that many of the bishops are shown with dogs at their feet, and also lions and birds. These depictions were thought to comfort and protect the deceased in the afterlife, or to represent the qualities of loyalty and strength they showed in life. You decide.

I’m always looking for female representation. Are angels female?

Back out on the street, we see and smell the 4711 (sieben und vierzig elf) building. 4711 is the essence of Cologne, and one of my favorite scents. My Oma wore it, and I keep a bottle of it at home to occasionally sniff.

We walked across the city to the Botanical Gardens, or Flora und Botanischer Garten. Why walk in the city when you can walk in a garden?

An aroma garden dominated by sweet daphne

We walked back along the Rhine River, where there were lots of boats taking tourists for river cruises. See the cathedral? It’s taller than any of the downtown buildings.

And we’re back to the crowds, with tons of folk at the sidewalk cafes sharing lunch and beer. A fine day!

Pieterpad: Valkenburg to Maastricht

July 13, 2025Hiking, The Netherlands, TravelValkenburg, Pieterpad, Maastricht, Mt. St. Pieter, André Rieu, Hotel Les Charmeskarenfranza

July 10 – All good things must come to an end. Today is our last hiking day. 12.75 miles planned.

This sign in the stairway of our hotel summed up our Netherlands hiking experience. Not only is there never an elevator, each hotel assumes that because we are hikers we won’t mind walking up to the top floor!

Heading into the suburbs before Maastricht, which go on a long way

The Dutch are so meticulous – have you ever seen such a perfectly trimmed weeping willow?

Crossing the bridge over the river Meuse

Many people stop to offer a prayer to the Virgin here

Passing out the other side of the city on the way to Mt. St. Pieter

Elevation! There’s Maastricht down below

Ta da! We are at the end of the Pieterpad! Another couple who had just completed took our picture.

Back to the city, we checked into Hotel Les Charmes, a delightful place where all the tables are made of old suitcases

The streets were super crowded this evening, and traffic was blocked to facilitate the free concert by hometown hero violinist André Rieu. We were told that he is the most famous violinist in the world.

Snaking through the crowd, we managed to find our restaurant. As a reward for a job well done, we treated ourselves to a spicy Singapore pho dinner, filled with seafood. Yum! We did it!

A Day in Valkenburg

July 12, 2025Hiking, The Netherlands, TravelValkenburg, wall artkarenfranza

July 9 – Returning to Valkenburg gave us a sweet sense of deja vu – this is the town where we holed up for eleven days while recovering from COVID way back in 2023. We stayed longer in this town than just about anywhere we’ve ever been. We walked every corner of Valkenburg while regaining our strength.

Here is where we learned to love Albert Heijn supermarkets – Jim has carried his Albert Heijn discount card in his wallet for two years, and was so happy to use it again!

So we didn’t feel the need to explore this lovely town, filled with sidewalk cafes and bustling with tourists. For us it felt like coming home.

We stopped by the Marx Motel, just to make sure it was still there

I couldn’t stop myself from snapping away at the old wall ads on every street

I see they still haven’t refurbished all the wall art

…and the mosaic bench in front of the library

It was a lovely trip down Memory Lane, and yes, we did visit the Albert Heijn. We are feeling nostalgic – our Pieterpad hike ends tomorrow.

Pieterpad: Sittard to Valkenburg

July 11, 2025Hiking, The Netherlands, TravelSittard, Valkenburg, wall art, wood carved animalskarenfranza

July 8 – We had an early breakfast and hit the road for our penultimate hiking day. The weather continues cool and cloudy. 15.5 miles planned.

Navigating out of the city – here’s our trail sign

We were immediately climbing a shady, quiet road that featured the stations of the cross on both sides

And then it was back out to the farm fields. Who knew Holland grew so much wheat?

Now, here’s a crop we haven’t seen – cabbages!

Oh my goodness – an animal carved out of a fallen tree trunk. What do you think it is? A boar? A badger?

And here’s another – a large chipmunk, or perhaps a small bear?

I guess you figured out that I love sunflowers

That church spire means we’re passing the town of Puth – we won’t actually go through it, but it lets us know we’ve gone 4 miles

We walked beside a busy highway for a while

A larger than Harvey sized rabbit in a field of potatoes. Thanks to whoever took the time to carve these along the roadside for our amusement!

The little mayor welcomed us back to Valkenburg

Pieterpad: Susteren to Sittard

July 10, 2025Hiking, The Netherlands, TravelSittard, Susterenkarenfranza

July 7 – Happy 85th birthday, Ringo Starr – peace and love! We said goodbye to Marijke and Ruud, and Ruud drove us back to the little Lourdes chapel so we could pick up right where we left off yesterday. Seven miles planned for today.

Same chapel, different day. It may rain later, but right now, the weather is cooperating. The high today will be in the low 60s. We’re wearing our long pants today!

Doesn’t this tree look like it should have Keebler elves?

These cows ran rushing toward us – maybe they thought we would feed them?

And then these chickens rushed toward us – we are feeling very popular today!

A little stand offered snacks and souvenirs to hikers, and a bench to rest on. On the Appalachian Trail back home, townspeople often set out treats for hikers, called Trail Magic. This stuff is for sale, so it’s not quite as magical.

And now the sky is blue – no rain for us after all!

We looked at a Pieterpad bench detailing distance traveled and distance yet to go, and I realized it is in German, not Dutch…

For one block, we are walking in Germany, then we turn the corner and are back in the Netherlands

We are staying at de Limburg Hotel, an historic place on the main square

Right next door is St. Michaels church, so we peeked inside

Much of the signage has to do with St. Rose of Lima, the patron Saint of Sittard

This little lion near the entrance commemorates the day in 1938 when an escaped circus lion entered the church and strode boldly up to the altar

Many of the statues here are music related

Happy to be here, but tired – tomorrow will be our penultimate hiking day

Pieterpad: Montfort to Susteren

July 9, 2025Hiking, The Netherlands, Travelancient Roman coins, chapel of St. Anthony, Lourdes chapel, Montfort, rain, Susterenkarenfranza

July 6 – Today dawned gray with rain forecast all day. The temperature was in the low 50s and the high for the day was expected to be in the low 60s. Nine miles planned for today.

We passed the Montfort castle on our way out of town

The farmer is watering the crops even in the rain

A fairy house in a hollow tree with a Buddha inside

A little memorial to the Canadian airmen who lost their lives here in WWII

Another trove of ancient Roman coins was discovered here

Here is where an ancient Roman hammer was found. I assume the actual hammer was not this big

This is our endpoint for today, the little chapel to Our Lady of Lourdes – the second one we’ve seen in this country. We waited here in the rain for Ruud to pick us up and bring us back for one more night at the B&B Botervleig. I am chilled to the bone. Can’t wait for a hot shower!

A Day in Montfort

July 8, 2025Hiking, The Netherlands, TravelB&B Botervleig, castle ruins, gardens, Montfortkarenfranza

July 5 – Unlike the other places chosen for a zero mile rest day, there is not a thing to do in Montfort, except to visit the one grocery store. The grocery store does not accept either our VISA or our Mastercard, (only local debit cards), so we are lucky that the town has an ATM.