The Mississippi and Mardi Gras

Nov 22 – Although we’ve been in New Orleans for almost a week, we have yet to see the Mississippi River. It’s only a block from the heart of town on Canal Street, so we sauntered over to have a look.

The Mighty Mississippi
This riverboat has a mighty horn and blasted it repeatedly for all to enjoy
Some wall art near the water
It is Saturday, and there is a New Orleans Saints game today. The crowds were phenomenal, and we’re not sure if all the extra people are here for the game, or just because it’s the weekend.
Today is Jim’s conference presentation, so we didn’t get to do much sightseeing. The presentation was a great success.
To celebrate, we went out to dinner with Jim’s colleagues, to the fancy French restaurant Galatoires. We started with turtle soup, which was a first for me. Very good! I had the shrimp étouffée in brown roux, and it was delicious.
Jim ordered the seafood bouillabaisse in a saffron stock, and pronounced it equally excellent. A fine day.
Nov 23 – We checked out Marie Laveau’s Voodoo Shop.

Marie, a midwife, healer and hairdresser, was the most famous of the voodoo practitioners of the 1800s.
No pix were permitted inside, so here is what you can see from the door. Incantations for every purpose, and tarot readings upon request.
Mother River statue in front of the Port of New Orleans
The other side of the statue
Right on the river is Mardi Gras World, a huge warehouse where figures for Mardi Gras parade floats are made and stored.
Most figures are sculpted in styrofoam, covered in papier-mâché, then painted
The figures are reconfigured and repainted as needed
Here is one of the parade floats. Our tour guide was a hoot. He told us that each float contained a porta-potty so the crewe could “oui oui” if necessary.
This is the same company that made all the cows on billboards for Chik Fila’s “Eat Mor Chiken” campaign. We didn’t see any cows today.
An ent?
So much to see and so colorful! Thank you, Mary, for this recommendation!
On friend Tom’s suggestion, we stopped in at Port of Call for a hamburger and baked potato lunch. We thought we could avoid the crowds by showing up at 3pm, but still had to wait half an hour for a seat. They make a signature rum drink called The Monsoon, and we enjoyed watching people trying to walk after finishing one!
Thanks New Orleans, you’ve been grand!

The Garden District

Nov 21 – This is our day to head south to explore the Garden District, where the New Orleans rich moved in the 1800s to get away from the crowded French Quarter. It is here that Ann Rice lived and placed many of her Vampire stories, and here that Peyton and Eli Manning grew up.

Some of these historical mansions have plaques indicating their age and the style in which they were built. Many contain more than one style, and are considered ‘transitional’.

This house is of the Greek Revival style
Nice fountain
One of the few we saw that were made of brick
You know you’re in a classy neighborhood if there is an Episcopal cathedral there!
Tulane and Loyola Universities have beautiful campuses here. We spoke with a student from Maine who absolutely loves it here!
Gorgeous trees
Meticulous gardens
Lafeyette Cemetery #1 is walled off and locked up
Here are the raised tombs that can be seen from the gate. The tombs became popular here as buried coffins would often flood and need T o be reburied.
We read that the tombs can be opened once a year to deposit a new body and remove last year’s bones
I don’t think the green building is a tomb…
Some houses are stately…
…and some are funky
Statuary that is classical….
…and some that is playful
We stopped into the Gracious Bakery on St. Charles Ave. for a mid morning coffee
The cherry cream cheese turnover did not disappoint
Grecian columns
This 1891 mansion was built in the Queen Anne style
The Robinson mansion was built in 1857 in the Italianate style
Some have places to hitch your horses
We had a recommendation to try the special at Stein’s Deli on Magazine St. We ordered a Cubano to eat later.
Here comes the green St.Charles streetcar to take us back home
The streetcar felt pretty stately too
Some wall art on O’Keefe Avenue for my O’Keefe family
Back in our suite we shared the Cubano sandwich we purchased at the deli and pronounced it “bon!”

City Park

Nov 20 – Today we ventured beyond where our feet could take us, further north to City Park. Our mission was to master the transit system and visit The New Orleans Museum of Art.

Our hotel concierge showed us how to download the Le Pass app, which magically integrated with Google Maps. Type in your destination, and you pay right in the app. A single ride is $1.25, but we paid for a 24 hour Jazzy Pass so we could hop on and off as needed. The fare is the same whether you choose a bus or a streetcar, so who wouldn’t choose a streetcar?

There are different color streetcars for different parts of town. Today we are on the red line. The streetcars run down the center of the street, between the lanes of traffic.
In 20 minutes, we arrived at the New Orleans Museum of Art, situated in City Park
The sea from the dead fishes’ perspective?
Here are two different paintings of John the Baptist preaching to the people.
Which one do you prefer?
Interesting faces
What is she thinking?
Both of these have a local swampy feel
The artist is unknown
A whole wall of sea-themed plates!
We always recognize St. James when we see him. This is Santiago Matamoros – St James killing the Moors.
Death Visits the Banquet
This is an odd one – Madonna and the infant Jesus flanked by John the Baptist (who you may recall is only a few months older than Jesus) and St. Peter (who did not meet Jesus until about 30 years later).
Behind the museum was a huge sculpture garden with lots of interesting pieces
Live oak with Spanish moss
Gator
Bear
Snail
A mirrored labyrinth
Karma
This one was called Maybe, Maybe Not
A horse for Lexi
Then we jumped back on the streetcar and tootled back home!

The French Quarter and Tremé

Nov 19 – Another sunny day with a high of 80 degrees. Fine shirtsleeve weather, breezy and not hot enough to make you sweat. We walked through the French Quarter again today, taking note of the buildings that hug the streets.

There is wall art here!
The St Louis Cathedral was open, so we popped in to see the inside. It was bright and airy with a painted ceiling.
Closeup of the painted ceiling
A feature of the buildings here are the many cast iron columns and railings – more ornate and more brittle than the wrought iron used elsewhere
We overheard a tour guide say that when the US asked for people to donate their iron to make munitions for WWII, the people of New Orleans said, “we will send our sons, but not our iron.”
As we walked north, the buildings got smaller and more colorful
In the Tremé district we found Louis Armstrong Park, built on the site of Congo Square
In the early 1800s, enslaved and free Black people gathered here by the hundreds on Sundays, enjoying their afternoon off dancing and making music together
Tremé became an area known for jazz. Jon Batiste was born here!
Spacious and tranquil
There are statues of many jazz greats here, including Louis Armstrong…
…and Mahalia Jackson. The Mahalia Jackson Theatre is just behind.
For today’s authentic New Orleans meal, we sought out NOLA Po Boys, where all the food is spicy! If you can’t handle the spice, ask for it “Yankee” style.
The grilled shrimp po boy did not disappoint!
A fine day!

The Big Easy

Nov 17, 2025 – We usually use this blog to record international adventures, but a trip to New Orleans feels like an opportunity to experience a different culture, so I think it qualifies. Want to come along?

Jim booked us a direct flight, which takes about two and a half hours. Easy breezy! We left home in the afternoon and expected to be in NOLA for a late supper.

Without the excruciating details, let’s just say our plane did not pass muster, and the airline had to dispatch another from Louisiana. Our friendly representative cautioned, “I’d rather be on the ground wishing I was in the sky, than in the sky wishing I was on the ground.” Wise words.

Eight hours later, we were airborne at 1am. Our plan to hop on a city bus to get to our hotel had to be amended, as buses don’t run at 3am. One taxi ride later (the cabbie wisely quoted the exact same price as Uber) we were able to rest our weary heads. We are here!

Nov 18 – Due to our very late night, we are feeling as jet lagged as if we’d crossed the Atlantic. We decided to just walk in the sunshine and look around today. Here is Louis Armstrong, right outside our hotel.
We walked to Jackson Square, a pretty park right next to the St. Louis Cathedral
The Cathedral was closed, but the shop next door had some hilarious tee shirts
We visited the famous Café du Monde, where one must stop for a cup of chicory coffee and a beignet – the New Orleans version of fried dough sprinkled with lots of powdered sugar.
Right outside the cafe was a busker who treated us to some jazz saxophone
Lots of carriage rides available for those who want to ride around town
Empanola famously puts anything you can imagine into an empanada. The aroma was lovely!
Lots of voodoo imagery
Here we are at the Jazz Funeral shop
We were on a mission to find the Central Grocery and Deli, home of the Original Muffuletta
The word muffuletta refers to the huge round fluffy bread that the sandwich is made with
This is one eighth of the Muffuletta – salami, ham and several types of cheese topped with pickled olive salad – we’ll be eating this for days! Delicious!

Last Stop: Mainz

July 17 – One more trip to the train station for our last journey south to the city of Mainz, also right on the Rhine River. We’ve had our own Rhine River cruise, without a boat!

Our hotel is right on a path that follows the river…
…with a shady corridor for strolling and sitting
Mainz is a city of many faces
…many of them quite somber
We walked down to see St. Martin’s Cathedral, or the Mainzer Dom. Although Mainz was pretty thoroughly bombed in 1945, the cathedral didn’t suffer much damage.
The inside was dark…
…and filled with bishops looking down at us disapprovingly
…one on every column
I usually don’t show pictures of crucifixions, but this one spoke to me
A pretty altarpiece, but absolutely no one is smiling
…and a guy who’s lost his head!
We checked out the Gutenberg Museum – Johannes Gutenberg was born and died in Mainz in the 1400s
There were several artists rendering of what he may have looked like, but he never sat for a portrait, so no one knows for sure
His invention of moveable type transformed communication and the world
We saw two of Gutenberg’s bibles – only twenty-one originals remain intact worldwide. Only black ink was used for printing. The colorful capital letters and red highlights were added later by hand.
We watched a demonstration of the moveable type process given totally in German. We got the general idea.
Happy Jim
This is the famous Fastnachtsbrunnen, or Carnival Sculpture
…containing hundreds of characters from Mainz’s winter carnival
…then made or way down to St. Stephen’s. Another church? Are you kidding? Wait for it…
St. Stephen’s was bombed during WWII, and lost all its windows. Nine new stained glass windows were designed by artist Marc Chagall, a Russian Jew, all in shades of blue. The windows contain scenes from the Old Testament, and were offered to show the commonality between Judaism and Christianity.
In a close-up view you can see people
…and flowers
…and doves
The church is bathed in serene blue light. Just lovely.
And so our journey ended. We brought home a generic blue delft Dutch plate to remind us of our hike on the Pieterpad (although we didn’t see many windmills), as we couldn’t find any Pieterpad related souvenirs…
…and a plate to remind us of the places we stopped along the Rhine River. We’re tired, and happy to be home.

Off to Rüdesheim am Rhein

July 15 – Happy birthday to our dear daughter Jae! We packed our bags once again and walk the one minute walk back to the train station. Today our journey is just one hour south to the pretty little town of Rüdesheim, which is right on the Rhine River.

Our first view, walking in from the train station.
Cuteness!
Rüdesheim is a stop on the Rhine River tours, and the town was full of cruisers eating ice cream and shopping for souvenirs.
Plenty of wall art
The Church of St. James is on the Camino de Santiago route
Inside we saw James with his pilgrim staff and shell
We decided that this was the town to give in to our bratwurst craving – these didn’t disappoint!
No trip to Rüdesheim is complete without a tour of Siegfried’s Mechanical Music Cabinet, a museum of antique music makers
This one played Entry of the Gladiators (the Circus Song) so loud we had to cover our ears
Some were from old merry-go-rounds, with beautiful workmanship
Our tour guide explained how the songs were imprinted on a metal plate
An old Victrola and a gramophone
This one had an entire string orchestra and a player piano
Then it was time for – you guessed it – the cable car ride to the top of the hill!
We got to look down on the Rhine River
…and the rows of grape vines. This town is known for its winery tours, but as we don’t drink wine, we didn’t investigate those
It was pretty windy in the cable car!
At the top of the hill was a huge statue called Germania, holding her sword down to indicate a desire for peace. It was built in the 1870s by Kaiser Wilhelm to celebrate the unification of Germany.
The multitude of soldiers with the Kaiser on his horse at the center
The statue is too huge to take in up close
Then we walked back down the hill through the vineyards
…and back to the river. Rüdesheim, we had a great time!

And Now To Koblenz

July 13 – Back on the train for the two hour ride south to Koblenz. This is a much smaller city, that sits at the Deutches Eck, where the Moselle River meets the Rhine.

Quaint architecture, old fashioned but not old
A pedestrian shopping street
They have a Woolworth here!
We looked into the Church of Our Lady, which has been an active parish since the 600s. Parts of this building dates from 1180, with renovations after WWII.
The altarpiece
New stained glass
A bit of wall art the sign says “to the little kettle”
We walked toward the river
A statue of Kaiser Wilhelm on his horse, accompanied by an angel
This is the Eck (corner) – where the Moselle River on the right flows into the Rhine
Rhine River cruises on one side
A not very old (rebuilt)  castle on the other side
There is a monument celebrating all the different regions that make up Germany
We popped into the modern art museum. There was one Picasso….
… but otherwise, we were not impressed
I had been craving a good doner for a while, and this was the town to get one. With the addition of a little red cabbage for a uniquely German twist, it was delicious!
Thanks Koblenz – we had a great time!

On to Cologne

July 11 – Now that our hiking is done, what should we do with our remaining time? Rather than a long travel day back to Frankfurt, we decided to stop in four German cities along the way. Today’s goal is Cologne, or in German, Köln.

One last lovely yogurt, fruit, ham and cheese breakfast
We walked to the Maastricht train station with our big packs on our backs – no more luggage transport for us
…and stepped off the eastbound train two hours later in Cologne, Germany. As soon as we left the rail station, we ran smack into the Cologne Cathedral of St. Peter, or Kölner Dom, the tallest twin-spired church in the world, and the tallest cathedral in the world. Pictures cannot convey the BIGNESS of this place. It dominates the skyline.
Can you see the gold sarcophagus on the main altar? It’s very far away! The building of the cathedral started in the 1200s as a place to display the reliquaries of the Magi, or the shrine of the Three Kings, but building was not completed until the 1880s.
Vibrantly colored stained glass
St. Christopher carrying the Christ child
The cathedral was bombed 14 times during WWII, and remained standing while all the surrounding buildings were destroyed
A richly colored Madonna and child
Plenty of dead bishops lying in state
…including St Engelburtus, who remained jaunty even in death
Jim noticed that many of the bishops are shown with dogs at their feet, and also lions and birds. These depictions were thought to comfort and protect the deceased in the afterlife, or to represent the qualities of loyalty and strength they showed in life. You decide.
Modern painting on the ceiling
Mother of all?
I’m always looking for female representation. Are angels female?
Back out on the street, we see and smell the 4711 (sieben und vierzig elf) building. 4711 is the essence of Cologne, and one of my favorite scents. My Oma wore it, and I keep a bottle of it at home to occasionally sniff.
We walked across the city to the Botanical Gardens, or Flora und Botanischer Garten. Why walk in the city when you can walk in a garden?
An aroma garden dominated by sweet daphne
Water lilies in many colors
We walked back along the Rhine River, where there were lots of boats taking tourists for river cruises. See the cathedral? It’s taller than any of the downtown buildings.
And we’re back to the crowds, with tons of folk at the sidewalk cafes sharing lunch and beer. A fine day!

Pieterpad: Valkenburg to Maastricht

July 10 – All good things must come to an end. Today is our last hiking day. 12.75 miles planned.

This sign in the stairway of our hotel summed up our Netherlands hiking experience. Not only is there never an elevator, each hotel assumes that because we are hikers we won’t mind walking up to the top floor!
Bye, Valkenburg!
Lots of suburbs to walk through
Finally, a dirt trail!
Blackberries for the picking
What a happy guy!
Off he goes!
A ranch emblem made of horseshoes
Good advice at the poultry farm
More potatoes
Limestone caves
Cows just love me
Heading into the suburbs before Maastricht, which go on a long way
The Dutch are so meticulous – have you ever seen such a perfectly trimmed weeping willow?
Approaching the city
Crossing the bridge over the river Meuse
Here we are!
Many people stop to offer a prayer to the Virgin here
Old architecture
Passing out the other side of the city on the way to Mt. St. Pieter
The old fort
Elevation! There’s Maastricht down below
Higher we climb
…and then…
Ta da! We are at the end of the Pieterpad! Another couple who had just completed took our picture.
Back to the city, we checked into Hotel Les Charmes, a delightful place where all the tables are made of old suitcases
The streets were super crowded this evening, and traffic was blocked to facilitate the free concert by hometown hero violinist André Rieu. We were told that he is the most famous violinist in the world.
Snaking through the crowd, we managed to find our restaurant. As a reward for a job well done, we treated ourselves to a spicy Singapore pho dinner, filled with seafood. Yum! We did it!