Category Archives: Travel

Off to Rüdesheim am Rhein

July 15 – Happy birthday to our dear daughter Jae! We packed our bags once again and walk the one minute walk back to the train station. Today our journey is just one hour south to the pretty little town of Rüdesheim, which is right on the Rhine River.

Our first view, walking in from the train station.
Cuteness!
Rüdesheim is a stop on the Rhine River tours, and the town was full of cruisers eating ice cream and shopping for souvenirs.
Plenty of wall art
The Church of St. James is on the Camino de Santiago route
Inside we saw James with his pilgrim staff and shell
We decided that this was the town to give in to our bratwurst craving – these didn’t disappoint!
No trip to Rüdesheim is complete without a tour of Siegfried’s Mechanical Music Cabinet, a museum of antique music makers
This one played Entry of the Gladiators (the Circus Song) so loud we had to cover our ears
Some were from old merry-go-rounds, with beautiful workmanship
Our tour guide explained how the songs were imprinted on a metal plate
An old Victrola and a gramophone
This one had an entire string orchestra and a player piano
Then it was time for – you guessed it – the cable car ride to the top of the hill!
We got to look down on the Rhine River
…and the rows of grape vines. This town is known for its winery tours, but as we don’t drink wine, we didn’t investigate those
It was pretty windy in the cable car!
At the top of the hill was a huge statue called Germania, holding her sword down to indicate a desire for peace. It was built in the 1870s by Kaiser Wilhelm to celebrate the unification of Germany.
The multitude of soldiers with the Kaiser on his horse at the center
The statue is too huge to take in up close
Then we walked back down the hill through the vineyards
…and back to the river. Rüdesheim, we had a great time!

And Now To Koblenz

July 13 – Back on the train for the two hour ride south to Koblenz. This is a much smaller city, that sits at the Deutches Eck, where the Moselle River meets the Rhine.

Quaint architecture, old fashioned but not old
A pedestrian shopping street
They have a Woolworth here!
We looked into the Church of Our Lady, which has been an active parish since the 600s. Parts of this building dates from 1180, with renovations after WWII.
The altarpiece
New stained glass
A bit of wall art the sign says “to the little kettle”
We walked toward the river
A statue of Kaiser Wilhelm on his horse, accompanied by an angel
This is the Eck (corner) – where the Moselle River on the right flows into the Rhine
Rhine River cruises on one side
A not very old (rebuilt)  castle on the other side
There is a monument celebrating all the different regions that make up Germany
We popped into the modern art museum. There was one Picasso….
… but otherwise, we were not impressed
I had been craving a good doner for a while, and this was the town to get one. With the addition of a little red cabbage for a uniquely German twist, it was delicious!
Thanks Koblenz – we had a great time!

On to Cologne

July 11 – Now that our hiking is done, what should we do with our remaining time? Rather than a long travel day back to Frankfurt, we decided to stop in four German cities along the way. Today’s goal is Cologne, or in German, Köln.

One last lovely yogurt, fruit, ham and cheese breakfast
We walked to the Maastricht train station with our big packs on our backs – no more luggage transport for us
…and stepped off the eastbound train two hours later in Cologne, Germany. As soon as we left the rail station, we ran smack into the Cologne Cathedral of St. Peter, or Kölner Dom, the tallest twin-spired church in the world, and the tallest cathedral in the world. Pictures cannot convey the BIGNESS of this place. It dominates the skyline.
Can you see the gold sarcophagus on the main altar? It’s very far away! The building of the cathedral started in the 1200s as a place to display the reliquaries of the Magi, or the shrine of the Three Kings, but building was not completed until the 1880s.
Vibrantly colored stained glass
St. Christopher carrying the Christ child
The cathedral was bombed 14 times during WWII, and remained standing while all the surrounding buildings were destroyed
A richly colored Madonna and child
Plenty of dead bishops lying in state
…including St Engelburtus, who remained jaunty even in death
Jim noticed that many of the bishops are shown with dogs at their feet, and also lions and birds. These depictions were thought to comfort and protect the deceased in the afterlife, or to represent the qualities of loyalty and strength they showed in life. You decide.
Modern painting on the ceiling
Mother of all?
I’m always looking for female representation. Are angels female?
Back out on the street, we see and smell the 4711 (sieben und vierzig elf) building. 4711 is the essence of Cologne, and one of my favorite scents. My Oma wore it, and I keep a bottle of it at home to occasionally sniff.
We walked across the city to the Botanical Gardens, or Flora und Botanischer Garten. Why walk in the city when you can walk in a garden?
An aroma garden dominated by sweet daphne
Water lilies in many colors
We walked back along the Rhine River, where there were lots of boats taking tourists for river cruises. See the cathedral? It’s taller than any of the downtown buildings.
And we’re back to the crowds, with tons of folk at the sidewalk cafes sharing lunch and beer. A fine day!

Pieterpad: Valkenburg to Maastricht

July 10 – All good things must come to an end. Today is our last hiking day. 12.75 miles planned.

This sign in the stairway of our hotel summed up our Netherlands hiking experience. Not only is there never an elevator, each hotel assumes that because we are hikers we won’t mind walking up to the top floor!
Bye, Valkenburg!
Lots of suburbs to walk through
Finally, a dirt trail!
Blackberries for the picking
What a happy guy!
Off he goes!
A ranch emblem made of horseshoes
Good advice at the poultry farm
More potatoes
Limestone caves
Cows just love me
Heading into the suburbs before Maastricht, which go on a long way
The Dutch are so meticulous – have you ever seen such a perfectly trimmed weeping willow?
Approaching the city
Crossing the bridge over the river Meuse
Here we are!
Many people stop to offer a prayer to the Virgin here
Old architecture
Passing out the other side of the city on the way to Mt. St. Pieter
The old fort
Elevation! There’s Maastricht down below
Higher we climb
…and then…
Ta da! We are at the end of the Pieterpad! Another couple who had just completed took our picture.
Back to the city, we checked into Hotel Les Charmes, a delightful place where all the tables are made of old suitcases
The streets were super crowded this evening, and traffic was blocked to facilitate the free concert by hometown hero violinist André Rieu. We were told that he is the most famous violinist in the world.
Snaking through the crowd, we managed to find our restaurant. As a reward for a job well done, we treated ourselves to a spicy Singapore pho dinner, filled with seafood. Yum! We did it!

A Day in Valkenburg

July 9 – Returning to Valkenburg gave us a sweet sense of deja vu – this is the town where we holed up for eleven days while recovering from COVID way back in 2023. We stayed longer in this town than just about anywhere we’ve ever been. We walked every corner of Valkenburg while regaining our strength.

Here is where we learned to love Albert Heijn supermarkets – Jim has carried his Albert Heijn discount card in his wallet for two years, and was so happy to use it again!

So we didn’t feel the need to explore this lovely town, filled with sidewalk cafes and bustling with tourists. For us it felt like coming home.

We stopped by the Marx Motel, just to make sure it was still there
I couldn’t stop myself from snapping away at the old wall ads on every street
Hello, old castle ruin
Hello lions!
Hello family statue
I see they still haven’t refurbished all the wall art
Hello flying goat!
…and the mosaic bench in front of the library
It was a lovely trip down Memory Lane, and yes, we did visit the Albert Heijn. We are feeling nostalgic – our Pieterpad hike ends tomorrow.

Pieterpad: Sittard to Valkenburg

July 8 – We had an early breakfast and hit the road for our penultimate hiking day. The weather continues cool and cloudy. 15.5 miles planned.

Navigating out of the city – here’s our trail sign
We were immediately climbing a shady, quiet road that featured the stations of the cross on both sides
And then it was back out to the farm fields. Who knew Holland grew so much wheat?
…and potatoes and beets?
Now, here’s a crop we haven’t seen – cabbages!
Oh my goodness – an animal carved out of a fallen tree trunk. What do you think it is? A boar? A badger?
And here’s another – a large chipmunk, or perhaps a small bear?
I guess you figured out that I love sunflowers
That church spire means we’re passing the town of Puth – we won’t actually go through it, but it lets us know we’ve gone 4 miles
Lovely view
We walked beside a busy highway for a while
…then back to the fields. More wheat!
I like the stripey effect of this house
Hmmm… a dead tree, filled with…
…witches!
A shady lane
…then back into the woods
A larger than Harvey sized rabbit in a field of potatoes. Thanks to whoever took the time to carve these along the roadside for our amusement!
The little mayor welcomed us back to Valkenburg
…home of pretty canals
…and lots of wall art
I’ll tell you more tomorrow…

Pieterpad: Susteren to Sittard

July 7 – Happy 85th birthday, Ringo Starr – peace and love! We said goodbye to Marijke and Ruud, and Ruud drove us back to the little Lourdes chapel so we could pick up right where we left off yesterday. Seven miles planned for today.

Same chapel, different day. It may rain later, but right now, the weather is cooperating. The high today will be in the low 60s. We’re wearing our long pants today!
Sunflowers
Interesting sky – will it rain on us?
Beware – wild boar area!
More interesting sky
Doesn’t this tree look like it should have Keebler elves?
These cows ran rushing toward us – maybe they thought we would feed them?
And then these chickens rushed toward us – we are feeling very popular today!
A little stand offered snacks and souvenirs to hikers, and a bench to rest on. On the Appalachian Trail back home, townspeople often set out treats for hikers, called Trail Magic. This stuff is for sale, so it’s not quite as magical.
And now the sky is blue – no rain for us after all!
We looked at a Pieterpad bench detailing distance traveled and distance yet to go, and I realized it is in German, not Dutch…
For one block, we are walking in Germany, then we turn the corner and are back in the Netherlands
Approaching Sittard
Wall art – my kind of place!
Roses above
We are staying at de Limburg Hotel, an historic place on the main square
Right next door is St. Michaels church, so we peeked inside
St Michael graces the main altar
Much of the signage has to do with St. Rose of Lima, the patron Saint of Sittard
This little lion near the entrance commemorates the day in 1938 when an escaped circus lion entered the church and strode boldly up to the altar
Pretty buildings
Many of the statues here are music related
Door art – St. Rose of Lima
Happy to be here, but tired – tomorrow will be our penultimate hiking day

Pieterpad: Montfort to Susteren

July 6 – Today dawned gray with rain forecast all day. The temperature was in the low 50s and the high for the day was expected to be in the low 60s. Nine miles planned for today.

We passed the Montfort castle on our way out of town
Off we go
Acanthus or mallow
The farmer is watering the crops even in the rain
A fairy house in a hollow tree with a Buddha inside
A little memorial to the Canadian airmen who lost their lives here in WWII
Wet rocks
Wet horses
Another trove of ancient Roman coins was discovered here
Wet cows
A little chapel of St. Anthony
Pretty inside
…with a a snail for a doorknob!
Here is where an ancient Roman hammer was found. I assume the actual hammer was not this big
This is our endpoint for today, the little chapel to Our Lady of Lourdes – the second one we’ve seen in this country. We waited here in the rain for Ruud to pick us up and bring us back for one more night at the B&B Botervleig. I am chilled to the bone. Can’t wait for a hot shower!

A Day in Montfort

July 5 – Unlike the other places chosen for a zero mile rest day, there is not a thing to do in Montfort, except to visit the one grocery store. The grocery store does not accept either our VISA or our Mastercard, (only local debit cards), so we are lucky that the town has an ATM.

Unfortunately, we will not be here long enough to enjoy Montfort’s annual Ass Festival
Our hosts Marijke and Ruud run an absolutely top notch B&B
This is our breakfast area in the back garden.
Marijke is an organic gardener
A crabapple tree bursting with fruit. Marijke makes her own jams, preserves and fruit smoothies, which we sampled at breakfast
A pear tree, and there is also a mulberry tree (that the yellow jackets really adored)
How many eggs would you like for breakfast? Fresh eggs are so delicious, not at all like ones we get at the store.
Montfort is known for its castle ruin, but the castle is not open today. Lucky for us, Ruud is a member of the board supervising the restoration of the castle, and he offered to give us a private tour.
The castle was built in the 1200s by Henrik van Gelre, a rich bishop who bought up all the surrounding land. The stones for the castle had to be imported from Belgium – floated down the river then hauled overland.
A recreation of van Gelre’s skull. As you can see by the big chunk missing from the back, he came to a bad end.
“Tis but a scratch.” No it isn’t – your arm is off!”
Walking through the castle basement, Ruud explained that this castle was huge by the standards of the time.
Surrounded by marshy water, an enemy army could only approach from one side
The walls were angled so cannons could shoot without hitting the opposite tower – ingenious!
Artifacts uncovered during the recent dig
Ruud showed us the dungeon
Prisoners were dropped through the hole in the ceiling and left in the small, dark space
There is much reconstruction left to go. Unfortunately, at some point the original stones were sold to make other buildings, so new brick is being used.
The gardens are also being restored to original specifications
Lots of grapevines
Good wine is important!
Very symmetrical
A circular water feature
…with water lilies
For supper, I tried the local specialty of Zoerfleis – a cross between my Oma’s sauerbraten and North Carolina barbecue – pulled beef, marinated in vinegar and spices. It was delicious!
A fine day off!

Pieterpad: Swalmen to Montfort

July 4 – Another clear and cool day, with temperatures again in the ideal 70s. 14.6 miles planned today.

The nice thing about our customized app is that you know your exact mileage right up to the door of your lodging, instead of a guidebook’s mileage to the town center, plus who knows how much longer til you can actually put your feet up! I’m liking the GUIBO app.

Walking out of town
Into the woods
What’s this? A fort?
Is the corn as high as an elephant’s eye on the Fourth of July?
Pretty wildflowers
We had to walk along the road for a while in an industrial area
The first sunflower we’ve seen, all by itself
This man was looking for buried treasure with his metal detector and a spade. He said he was searching for ancient Roman coins, but all he was finding was old bullets.
Swans!
In the distance, we see church spires
It is the Basilica of St. Odilien, but it was not open for us to visit
Near the church is a memorial for those from this town who “died due to war violence”. Many of the names are female. Were they victims of a bombing? Killed for resisting? Sent to a camp? We’ll never know.
This farmer really loves to sculpt his shrubbery
Are these dahlias?
We came to the place where a treasure trove of Roman coins were found. It is thought that a Roman soldier buried them for safekeeping, then never returned.
And now we are in Montfort. Here is the only wall art we found
…and here is a statue of a man and his dog
And now we are at the B&B Botervleig, where we will sleep for the next three nights. Our host Marijke met us with homemade lemonade and a huge slice of gooseberry pie. I think we’re going to like it here!