June 30 – Only seven miles planned today, so we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast. Leaving the B&B, we stopped to admire the variety of colors and wonderful aromas of the nearby rose farm. Although the Netherlands is best known for tulips, it is also the world’s largest exporter of roses, carnations, chrysanthemums and other flowers.
So many roses!Passing through the town of Tienray, we stopped at an important pilgrimage site called Klein Lourdes, where folks travel to pray. The church was bombed in WWII, and was rebuilt.Inside is a replica of the grotto where St. Bernadette spoke with Our LadyNow we are off into the woodsWhat’s this? A field of immediately recognizable plants!Cannabis sativa or hemp? You decide!The sun is so bright that some folks shaded their beautiful hydrangeas with umbrellas so they wouldn’t get crispy. The temperature reached 92 F – very unusual for here.Lots of ferns…and some swampAnd we’re almost to our hotel! I’ll do a seven mile day anytime, even in the heat!Landhuishotel de Hilkensberg was like a spa, with extensive groundsA natural pool – Jim jumped right inWalking pathsFountainsWater lilies And – saving the best for last – a baby alpaca! How cute is that?
June 29 – We had one more good breakfast at the Hotel de Kroon, then the dad of the owner drove us back to Vierlingsbeek so we could resume our hike right where we left off. 12.3 miles planned for today.
We were dropped off right at the church steps, and, as it is Sunday, we asked if there was a church service. Oh no, came the reply, perhaps if someone wants a wedding or a funeral the church can be rented, but otherwise no services.
This is the first day we will be walking in the sun, with no clouds expected. Today’s high is anticipated to be 82 F, which qualifies as a heat emergency in the Netherlands. As Virginians used to hot soupy weather, this made us chuckle. Our hiking app warned us not to hike in this extreme heat. I hope we make it!
We were very self assured after completing the previous day’s walk without taking any wrong turns. Perhaps we have figured out the Pieterpad? Nope!
We crossed on the ferry again to return to Vierlingsbeek, this time in a carLooks like it’s going to be a great day Out of the sun, into the woods On the other side of the woods, a little town with some roadside artClassic lawn decorations Guard ducksAfter the town, a very sandy area, although there is no beach nearbyA thatched roof cottage. Here we learned a lesson of the trail: just because others are walking in one direction, doesn’t mean you should follow them.This is a rose farm, with folks cultivating baby rose bushes. The Netherlands is one of the world’s biggest exporters of flowers of all kinds. Here we learned another lesson: don’t get so interested in your surroundings that you miss your turn!Moving waterMidafternoon, with no shade. We stopped at a bar, and Jim popped in to the outdoor restroom, just to refill a water bottle. As we left, the owner came out and chased after us, yelling that we were stealing his water. I guess he was the opposite of a Nice Person. Hope we don’t meet too many like him.Thanks to whoever took the time to decorate the roadside postsA little chapel in the middle of the woods The door was locked, but here’s what it looked like inside A picture worthy hollow log along the way – I would definitely plant some flowers hereLook in the distance- that must be Meerlo!Indeed it was Meerlo – we walked into the town …through the town, and out the other sideOur B&B was quite an extra hike, but we got there eventually. We had the place to ourselves, as our host said the other expected guests cancelled due to the heat. There were no restaurants nearby, so Jim made us a ramen noodle supper. A good day!
June 28 – Today is a planned zero mile rest day. The pretty little town of Gennep deserves to be seen in great detail.
The toy store sells a wooden jigsaw puzzle featuring the town, with customized puzzle pieces. If Icould fit this in my backpack, I would buy one.Good looking dogsLots of bikes, as throughout the Netherlands, but this is the first tricycle-built-for-two that we’ve seenThe town hall has a carillon of 25 bells that tinkle sweetly several times an hour – selections range from Ode to Joy to the Yellow Rose of Texas, with a lullaby the last song of the eveningA nice shopping streetWe learned as much of the town history as we could figure out out without English signageThis is the original water spigot that the townspeople used to draw their water, for a feeThe Protestant church was open – very plain inside. The man we spoke to said the church is of the Calvinist tradition, but not especially strictMosaics in the square commemorate the 22 Jews who “left” during WWII and never came homeThis tower is all that remains of the Roman Catholic Church that was bombed during WWII. We climbed to the top to see the viewThere are murals painted inside the tower – see the Pieterpad hiker?The murals were done by the same artist who painted the overpass on our way into town. I recognize the badger!The top of the tower didn’t provide a view, but a reminder of the American pilot who died here in WWII. He thought he had crossed the border into Germany and dropped his bombs too soon, then was shot down and died in the crash.This wall contains insets of some historical buildingsThe River Meuse runs along the old city wallThe Good Samaritan A lovely day in a pretty town – tomorrow, we walk!
June 27 – We heard rain early this morning, but it stopped by the time we finished breakfast. Twelve miles planned for this cool and cloudy day.
Programming my phone for today’s itineraryGood morning, masked horses! The masks help keep the flies out of their eyesThe way markers seem clearer today, or maybe we’re getting smarter? The Pieterpad marker is the red and white in the middle.A nice shady pathA bit of road walking, with a decorated overpass…painted on both sides!Take care – chicken crossing ahead! We did not see any chickens…A big field of wildflowers This was the only cafe we passed by today, but we had already eaten our lunch with a pot of Jim’s good coffee, so we didn’t stop in.Now, here’s a sign you don’t see every day! An unusual way to alert folks that there is a ferry crossing ahead.Sitting and waiting for the ferry – how often does it run?It runs about every five minutes, taking pedestrians, bicyclists and cars across the Meuse RiverThe ferryman collected one euro from each person, and before we knew it, we were on the other side.Some more good signage – don’t take this path!Look in the distance – that must be Vierlingsbeek!We walked into town and waited on the church steps for Nena from the Hotel de Kroon to come pick us up. The walk to Meerlo is too long for us old folks to complete in one go (24 miles and a bit) so our travel company split it into two 12 mile walking days with a rest day in between. This is the good life!
June 26 – Our first hiking day dawned to the sound of thunder and the patter of raindrops. We’ll be using our rain gear today! Our walk is planned for 8.5 miles – an easy first day.
The Pieterpad, the Netherlands most famous trail, runs from Pieterboro in the north, to St. Pieter’s hill in the south, and can be walked in either direction. We are starting in the middle and walking south. There are different routes for hikers, cyclists and horses.
Leaving the hotelInstead of a map, our tour company gave us the GUIBO app, containing turn by turn directions of our customized itinerary. We learned early in the day that a nice path straight ahead is not necessarily the right way to go. After taking a wrong turn, we got a text informing us that we had left the trail, but not telling us where, or how to get back on track. So, we turned around and walked back until the app said we were, once again, on the route. After that, we checked our phones every few minutes for the rest of the day, like teenagers scrolling for new TikToks.My trail umbrella attaches nicely to my daypack (under my jacket) so I can use both hands for my trekking poles. If I had a third hand to hold my phone, life would be ideal!Pretty berries Wait for me, Jim!So still and tranquil Cows in the rainA horse looks like she’s wearing a raincoat too!An old icehouse, used to store food in the hot summer A gnarly treeHave we reached Troy? We walked through the little town of Milsbeek, home of another WWII cemetery filled with foreign soldiersLocks of love!Almost thereAnd now we are in the lovely town of Gennep, (pronounced Chhhhennep like you are clearing your throat), and the rain has stopped. A fine first hiking day!
June 25 – Today Boris and his friend Simon picked us up in the morning for the 45 minute drive over the German border into the Netherlands. There is no border, of course, just a sign on the highway. We are heading to the town of Groesbeek, where we will start our Pieterpad hike tomorrow.
We bid adieu to Simon and Boris We checked into the lovely de Wolfsberg Hotel, then walked into town to see what there were to see.Groesbeek is best known for the Museum of Freedom, or Vrijheidsmuseum, shaped like a parachute, and dedicated to the WWII participants in Operation Market Garden in 1944There were so many thought-provoking displays in this museum, including examples of Dutch citizens during the Occupation. If it were you, would you work for the Germans to feed your family, lay low and wait for it all to be over, or join the Resistance? Good questions for us to ponder today.One of Dr Seuss’ many wartime cartoons encouraging the U.S. to actively join the AlliesA different version of Rosie the Riveter, by Norman RockwellThis chart was depicted in 3D in the final room of the museum. I had always thought about the war being about Germans, Japanese, Brits and Americans, and was astounded to see the number of Soviet and Chinese dead. Very sobering…A sculpture of souls rising up from the many local cemeteries after the war, to see how it all turned out. This museum blew my mind. If you ever get the opportunity, please go!
June 17, 2025 – You may remember that Jim and I had plans to hike the Pieterpad in the Netherlands back in the fall of 2023. Instead, we both got Covid and spent most of our vacation holed up in a motel, waiting to feel better.
Jim is not a person who can let a good trail go unhiked, so we are on our way back to Germany and the Netherlands to try again. Here’s to a healthy month!
June 18 – We flew from Norfolk to Newark, walking off one plane and directly onto the plane to Frankfurt with no incidents to report. We figured out the Frankfurt subway sufficiently to get to our hotel. Once we found the correct train, it was easy peasy, with stops displayed and spoken in both German and English.
We are staying at the Rioca, a Brazilian themed hotel with tropical furnishings and recorded bird calls in the hallways. We’ll be here a few days to get over our jet lag.
Feels like we’re in Rio!The sign outside our hotel door, in case we forget where we are stayingThe hotel has a rooftop restaurant with a lovely view of the city We ventured out to find a grocery store. Fields of wildflowers are planted along the walkway to attract birds and insects. With only two hours of sleep last night, we tumbled gratefully into bed. Tomorrow we will explore!
Oct 9 – This morning we put our boots on, and walked off to find the southern terminus of the Pieterpad. Even though we didn’t do all the hiking we originally planned, we thought we should climb the last hill.
The path ran along the River MeuseThis is a working river, with lots of barge trafficEach bird had a favorite perch
We got to the foot of Mount Sint Pieter, and started up.
There is a lovely lake hereJim is always happy to be ascending, even if the hill is not very steep A view of the town below
Before too long, we reached the summit, and looked around. No signs of the beginning or the end of anything. There were some trail markers, but the Pieterpad was not among them. What to do?
No Pieterpad markers here
We trudged back down the hill, asking Google where we went wrong. No answers. At the foot of the hill was a café. We asked the proprietress, and she pointed across a very industrial-looking area. There was a path, so we followed it.
If you look really hard, you can see a set of steps in the center, at the far side of this picture. Can you see them?We wondered what sort of mining went on here.Now we’re closer – see the steps now?That is not a natural cave – something is mined hereAfter all the metal steps was a last set of stone steps to the top. Wait for me, Jim!Ta da! Not a picturesque view, but we made it!Sure enough, there was a monument where you could immortalize an image of yourself either starting or ending the Pieterpad. Someday we may return and hike the rest!There was an old fort ruin up here too, but we had seen enough for one day.See the old fort in the distance?We had a lovely café lunch – as the sign mentions, dogs are welcome everywhere here.
And so ended our Pieterpad and Netherlands adventure. Tomorrow, on to Belgium!
Oct 8 – As our hike from Valkenburg continued, we left the farmlands, walked through the suburbs…
…over a pedestrian bridge and about an hour into the center of the city of Maastricht. We maneuvered down a very crowded shopping street with upscale stores and lots of restaurants.
There were things to see, but my pack was getting heavier by the minute, so Jim took us right to our B and B, Chez Helene.
Our street – have all the trees been trimmed to the same size and shape?
The funny thing about this country is that the small hotels we tend to frequent all call themselves B and Bs, but most do not serve breakfast. So what is the other B? We may never know. This one was even curiouser, as the advertised en suite did not actually have a separate bathroom. The toilet was right in the bedroom, with no door of any sort. Travelers can get used to anything, I guess!
So, after a good night’s sleep and a healthy breakfast from the nearby supermarket (coffee, hard boiled eggs, plain yogurt and fruit, and more coffee), we set off to see Maastricht.
We knew from our time in Valkenburg that the Basilica of St. Servatius was here.
Might this be a church? Nope…It’s Maastricht’s most famous bookstore! With a whole floor of English books……and a dynamite classic vinyl collection. Is $50 a good price for an LP? I have no idea.Might this be a church? No! It’s the bus stop!How about this one?Yes! It’s the Basilica of St. Servatius!…containing some of the remains of the Saint, who died here back in the year 384.Lots of Madonnas and babies hereVery European looking Doesn’t this baby look like he’s up to no good?This one was way up near the ceiling This one is part of a bigger painting……that shows that St. Servatius was related to Jesus and his cousins John (the Baptist) and James (the Less)A nice church – glad we found it!
Then we had a lovely café lunch and walked around town.
A horse with no legsThe Dutch are very serious about keeping their shrubbery trimmed.I like the rainbow crosswalk
Oct 7 – Today we bid adieu to Valkenburg, shouldered our packs and got on the Pieterpad for the hike to Maastricht. Although I’ve shown you plenty of wall art, here is some more as we walked out of town.
Gnome Sweet Gnome An odd place for a baby, above a doorwayA pretty church? Nope – it’s a restaurant!A pretty houseAn ivy covered gazeboFinally – goats!
The day was perfect for hiking – cool and breezy. Maastricht is about eight miles away.
After leaving town, we walked along the River Guel Keeping an eye out for Pieterpad markersThis trail is also part of the Camino de Santiago – it was great to see the familiar sign of the shell!Shady forest We walked through an upscale town with thatched roof houses – go figure!The coffee shop had an impressive collection of old hiking boots – who would discard their boots before the end of the trail?Then back out to farmland We met lots of hikers and bikers, but theses were the only horses we saw today
And just like that, we were in Maastricht, the biggest city we’ve seen since Amsterdam. I’ll tell you all about it tomorrow!