Category Archives: The Netherlands

Pieterpad: Valkenburg to Maastricht

July 10 – All good things must come to an end. Today is our last hiking day. 12.75 miles planned.

This sign in the stairway of our hotel summed up our Netherlands hiking experience. Not only is there never an elevator, each hotel assumes that because we are hikers we won’t mind walking up to the top floor!
Bye, Valkenburg!
Lots of suburbs to walk through
Finally, a dirt trail!
Blackberries for the picking
What a happy guy!
Off he goes!
A ranch emblem made of horseshoes
Good advice at the poultry farm
More potatoes
Limestone caves
Cows just love me
Heading into the suburbs before Maastricht, which go on a long way
The Dutch are so meticulous – have you ever seen such a perfectly trimmed weeping willow?
Approaching the city
Crossing the bridge over the river Meuse
Here we are!
Many people stop to offer a prayer to the Virgin here
Old architecture
Passing out the other side of the city on the way to Mt. St. Pieter
The old fort
Elevation! There’s Maastricht down below
Higher we climb
…and then…
Ta da! We are at the end of the Pieterpad! Another couple who had just completed took our picture.
Back to the city, we checked into Hotel Les Charmes, a delightful place where all the tables are made of old suitcases
The streets were super crowded this evening, and traffic was blocked to facilitate the free concert by hometown hero violinist André Rieu. We were told that he is the most famous violinist in the world.
Snaking through the crowd, we managed to find our restaurant. As a reward for a job well done, we treated ourselves to a spicy Singapore pho dinner, filled with seafood. Yum! We did it!

A Day in Valkenburg

July 9 – Returning to Valkenburg gave us a sweet sense of deja vu – this is the town where we holed up for eleven days while recovering from COVID way back in 2023. We stayed longer in this town than just about anywhere we’ve ever been. We walked every corner of Valkenburg while regaining our strength.

Here is where we learned to love Albert Heijn supermarkets – Jim has carried his Albert Heijn discount card in his wallet for two years, and was so happy to use it again!

So we didn’t feel the need to explore this lovely town, filled with sidewalk cafes and bustling with tourists. For us it felt like coming home.

We stopped by the Marx Motel, just to make sure it was still there
I couldn’t stop myself from snapping away at the old wall ads on every street
Hello, old castle ruin
Hello lions!
Hello family statue
I see they still haven’t refurbished all the wall art
Hello flying goat!
…and the mosaic bench in front of the library
It was a lovely trip down Memory Lane, and yes, we did visit the Albert Heijn. We are feeling nostalgic – our Pieterpad hike ends tomorrow.

Pieterpad: Sittard to Valkenburg

July 8 – We had an early breakfast and hit the road for our penultimate hiking day. The weather continues cool and cloudy. 15.5 miles planned.

Navigating out of the city – here’s our trail sign
We were immediately climbing a shady, quiet road that featured the stations of the cross on both sides
And then it was back out to the farm fields. Who knew Holland grew so much wheat?
…and potatoes and beets?
Now, here’s a crop we haven’t seen – cabbages!
Oh my goodness – an animal carved out of a fallen tree trunk. What do you think it is? A boar? A badger?
And here’s another – a large chipmunk, or perhaps a small bear?
I guess you figured out that I love sunflowers
That church spire means we’re passing the town of Puth – we won’t actually go through it, but it lets us know we’ve gone 4 miles
Lovely view
We walked beside a busy highway for a while
…then back to the fields. More wheat!
I like the stripey effect of this house
Hmmm… a dead tree, filled with…
…witches!
A shady lane
…then back into the woods
A larger than Harvey sized rabbit in a field of potatoes. Thanks to whoever took the time to carve these along the roadside for our amusement!
The little mayor welcomed us back to Valkenburg
…home of pretty canals
…and lots of wall art
I’ll tell you more tomorrow…

Pieterpad: Susteren to Sittard

July 7 – Happy 85th birthday, Ringo Starr – peace and love! We said goodbye to Marijke and Ruud, and Ruud drove us back to the little Lourdes chapel so we could pick up right where we left off yesterday. Seven miles planned for today.

Same chapel, different day. It may rain later, but right now, the weather is cooperating. The high today will be in the low 60s. We’re wearing our long pants today!
Sunflowers
Interesting sky – will it rain on us?
Beware – wild boar area!
More interesting sky
Doesn’t this tree look like it should have Keebler elves?
These cows ran rushing toward us – maybe they thought we would feed them?
And then these chickens rushed toward us – we are feeling very popular today!
A little stand offered snacks and souvenirs to hikers, and a bench to rest on. On the Appalachian Trail back home, townspeople often set out treats for hikers, called Trail Magic. This stuff is for sale, so it’s not quite as magical.
And now the sky is blue – no rain for us after all!
We looked at a Pieterpad bench detailing distance traveled and distance yet to go, and I realized it is in German, not Dutch…
For one block, we are walking in Germany, then we turn the corner and are back in the Netherlands
Approaching Sittard
Wall art – my kind of place!
Roses above
We are staying at de Limburg Hotel, an historic place on the main square
Right next door is St. Michaels church, so we peeked inside
St Michael graces the main altar
Much of the signage has to do with St. Rose of Lima, the patron Saint of Sittard
This little lion near the entrance commemorates the day in 1938 when an escaped circus lion entered the church and strode boldly up to the altar
Pretty buildings
Many of the statues here are music related
Door art – St. Rose of Lima
Happy to be here, but tired – tomorrow will be our penultimate hiking day

Pieterpad: Montfort to Susteren

July 6 – Today dawned gray with rain forecast all day. The temperature was in the low 50s and the high for the day was expected to be in the low 60s. Nine miles planned for today.

We passed the Montfort castle on our way out of town
Off we go
Acanthus or mallow
The farmer is watering the crops even in the rain
A fairy house in a hollow tree with a Buddha inside
A little memorial to the Canadian airmen who lost their lives here in WWII
Wet rocks
Wet horses
Another trove of ancient Roman coins was discovered here
Wet cows
A little chapel of St. Anthony
Pretty inside
…with a a snail for a doorknob!
Here is where an ancient Roman hammer was found. I assume the actual hammer was not this big
This is our endpoint for today, the little chapel to Our Lady of Lourdes – the second one we’ve seen in this country. We waited here in the rain for Ruud to pick us up and bring us back for one more night at the B&B Botervleig. I am chilled to the bone. Can’t wait for a hot shower!

A Day in Montfort

July 5 – Unlike the other places chosen for a zero mile rest day, there is not a thing to do in Montfort, except to visit the one grocery store. The grocery store does not accept either our VISA or our Mastercard, (only local debit cards), so we are lucky that the town has an ATM.

Unfortunately, we will not be here long enough to enjoy Montfort’s annual Ass Festival
Our hosts Marijke and Ruud run an absolutely top notch B&B
This is our breakfast area in the back garden.
Marijke is an organic gardener
A crabapple tree bursting with fruit. Marijke makes her own jams, preserves and fruit smoothies, which we sampled at breakfast
A pear tree, and there is also a mulberry tree (that the yellow jackets really adored)
How many eggs would you like for breakfast? Fresh eggs are so delicious, not at all like ones we get at the store.
Montfort is known for its castle ruin, but the castle is not open today. Lucky for us, Ruud is a member of the board supervising the restoration of the castle, and he offered to give us a private tour.
The castle was built in the 1200s by Henrik van Gelre, a rich bishop who bought up all the surrounding land. The stones for the castle had to be imported from Belgium – floated down the river then hauled overland.
A recreation of van Gelre’s skull. As you can see by the big chunk missing from the back, he came to a bad end.
“Tis but a scratch.” No it isn’t – your arm is off!”
Walking through the castle basement, Ruud explained that this castle was huge by the standards of the time.
Surrounded by marshy water, an enemy army could only approach from one side
The walls were angled so cannons could shoot without hitting the opposite tower – ingenious!
Artifacts uncovered during the recent dig
Ruud showed us the dungeon
Prisoners were dropped through the hole in the ceiling and left in the small, dark space
There is much reconstruction left to go. Unfortunately, at some point the original stones were sold to make other buildings, so new brick is being used.
The gardens are also being restored to original specifications
Lots of grapevines
Good wine is important!
Very symmetrical
A circular water feature
…with water lilies
For supper, I tried the local specialty of Zoerfleis – a cross between my Oma’s sauerbraten and North Carolina barbecue – pulled beef, marinated in vinegar and spices. It was delicious!
A fine day off!

Pieterpad: Swalmen to Montfort

July 4 – Another clear and cool day, with temperatures again in the ideal 70s. 14.6 miles planned today.

The nice thing about our customized app is that you know your exact mileage right up to the door of your lodging, instead of a guidebook’s mileage to the town center, plus who knows how much longer til you can actually put your feet up! I’m liking the GUIBO app.

Walking out of town
Into the woods
What’s this? A fort?
Is the corn as high as an elephant’s eye on the Fourth of July?
Pretty wildflowers
We had to walk along the road for a while in an industrial area
The first sunflower we’ve seen, all by itself
This man was looking for buried treasure with his metal detector and a spade. He said he was searching for ancient Roman coins, but all he was finding was old bullets.
Swans!
In the distance, we see church spires
It is the Basilica of St. Odilien, but it was not open for us to visit
Near the church is a memorial for those from this town who “died due to war violence”. Many of the names are female. Were they victims of a bombing? Killed for resisting? Sent to a camp? We’ll never know.
This farmer really loves to sculpt his shrubbery
Are these dahlias?
We came to the place where a treasure trove of Roman coins were found. It is thought that a Roman soldier buried them for safekeeping, then never returned.
And now we are in Montfort. Here is the only wall art we found
…and here is a statue of a man and his dog
And now we are at the B&B Botervleig, where we will sleep for the next three nights. Our host Marijke met us with homemade lemonade and a huge slice of gooseberry pie. I think we’re going to like it here!

Pieterpad: Venlo to Swalmen

July 3 – What a difference a rainstorm makes! We bid adieu to Villa Anna, and stepped out into the 56 F morning – a forty degree drop in one day! A beautiful clear day, with a high in the mid 70s and 15 miles planned.

More quirky statues as we walk out of Venlo
Quiet please!
Getting out of the city. Which way do we go now?
Today’s signage was the most confusing so far…do we follow the red and white, or obey the X?
Let’s go this way
So many choices!
More beautiful flower farms
A noisy wood chipper came by to widen our path
Deer stands all along this route
I love a natural arbor
Horses!
Lexi, what kind of horse is this?
…and sheep!
Still water
A lookout welcoming us to Swalmen
Another statue on the way to our B&B
This is St. John of Nepomuk, also known as the Bridge saint, as he was killed by being thrown off a bridge. He has his finger to his lips as he was martyred for refusing to betray the confessed secrets of the queen.
An odd sculpture outside the restaurant
An exquisite supper – Jim had the stuffed peppers, and I had pasta and burrata. I’d not had burrata before: it is a cheese globe of mozzarella on the outside, which you break open to find soft creamy stracciatella inside. What a treat!

A Day in Venlo

July 2 – Well, we managed to get some sleep in our very warm room, and enjoyed a nice breakfast with some very crabby Germans who obviously did not sleep well either. Today’s temperature is expected to be 98 F for the second day in a row.

This is a planned zero mile rest day in the city of Venlo. We are happy not to be hiking, but wondered how to spend the day without cooking our brains. We ventured into the city to see what there was to see before the temperature got too hot.

Jim wanted to meet with his online group today, but our hotel has no Wi-Fi, so we looked for a place that might accommodate a Zoom call.

We went first to the bibliotek (a library should be a good resource no matter where you are), but they had neither Wi-Fi nor air con.

Most area restaurants had Wi-Fi but no air con, and did not appear to be places that would allow us to sit for an hour holding a meeting. We finally came upon the Museum of Modern Art, which had a little cafe where we could sit as long as we kept buying lemonades. Here are some things we saw in the city:

Lots of statues
Quaint architecture
We stopped in the St Martinus Basilica, where it was dark and cool. This bishop must have been very famous, as his gloves and shoes have been preserved
Animal angels?
Pretty carvings at the steps of the pulpit
A very imposing pulpit
God preparing to smite some poor soul
More artwork on the streets
Is that a chicken atop this sculpture?
The founders of Venlo
The Museum of Modern Art. Light on your feet? Twinkle toes? Name this piece of art!
The museum featured the works of Giselle Kuster. She started out painting realistically…
Got a bit modernist…
Went out on a limb….
Then went fully abstract!
I like an elevator with a sense of humor
When we left the museum at 4:30, the sky was turning dark and the streets were almost empty due to threat of the impending storm. It was 99 degrees F. We hustled back across town, and reached Villa Anna just as the sky opened and the rain poured down.

Pieterpad: Broekhuizen to Venlo

July 1 – We have been watching the weather all week, as the temperatures continue to rise way beyond what is usual in the Netherlands. We chuckled when a heat emergency was declared at 80 F, but today will get up to 95 F, and we are not chuckling now.

We asked for the earliest breakfast time, to take advantage of the coolness of the morning, but it’s looking like we’ll be taking a miserable walk.

We reviewed today’s route, and saw that we are scheduled to walk by an Albert Hjein (Netherlands best grocery store!) at about mile 5 of our 12 mile day. This gives us a place where we can direct an Uber, if Uber exists out here where there is no city.

It took a minute, but yes! Uber is available, and Rajik will come for us in 14 minutes! O happy day! A 7 mile day is doable in any heat.

I bet you wish you weren’t wearing those wool coats!
So, today we learned another lesson of the Pieterpad. When Uber drops you off right on the trail, make sure you are walking in the right direction. Yes, we walked this stretch twice. Now it’s an 8 mile day!
Interesting yard art – I like the pants!
I bet this guy heats up nicely in the sun
Here comes the sun, doo, dun, doo, doo
We were hoping for a shady woods walk, but no luck so far
Another ferry crossing – wonder why they don’t just build a bridge?
Time to put up the sun-brella. That little bit of shade makes all the difference
Jim didn’t have that option – he left his umbrella at home
A very effective crosswalk sign
Hot asphalt road walk – what else?
We got to walk along the water for a while, but it was no cooler there
Well look at that – a marker for the Camino de Santiago!
And still we walk…
…and walk some more into the city of Venlo
So now we’ve arrived at Villa Anna, a lovely historic B&B with – you guessed it – no air conditioning, and only one window, so no chance of a breeze. And no Wi-Fi either. It actually got up to 98 F this afternoon. It’s going to be a long night…